4x4

Ok, so the way I understand it if I want 4 wheel disc brakes im going to need new axles right? I figure since im going to all that trouble can I make it a 4x4? like get a couple of Dana 44's front and rear with a transfer case or is that a big waste of time and money?

Improving the usefulness of a vehicle is never a waste of money. Will it pay you back when you sell it? Maybe...and maybe not. Depends on what the buyer is looking for.

The big $$$ will be getting driveshafts made for the front and rear axles. They have to be properly balanced, and my experience has been that truck specialty shops are the best places to locate quality driveshaft [even custom lengths]. In the Louisville, KY area I usually recommend Republic Industries, a division of what used to be Republic Diesel. When I worked for the various dealership parts departments, we always got a quality product from Republic, and never had a come-back for defects. BUT they were pricey.

Improving the usefulness of a vehicle is never a waste of money. Will it pay you back when you sell it? Maybe...and maybe not. Depends on what the buyer is looking for.

The big $$$ will be getting driveshafts made for the front and rear axles. They have to be properly balanced, and my experience has been that truck specialty shops are the best places to locate quality driveshaft [even custom lengths]. In the Louisville, KY area I usually recommend Republic Industries, a division of what used to be Republic Diesel. When I worked for the various dealership parts departments, we always got a quality product from Republic, and never had a come-back for defects. BUT they were pricey.

What kind of axles would you suggest? ones from a Jeep Wrangler, Ford Ranger, Explorer ect?

there are a ton of cheap 60s IHC 4x4 pickum ups out there,

I have a 56 Travelall that the body that was set onto a 60s IHC 4x4 frame, look like they did minimal fabricating.

pretty straight forward swap to do the sheet metal to another frame,

I have converted several Binders to 4X4 and it is not terribly difficult, but it cannot be said that it was a bolt in. For my son's L110, we have and will be using a matched set of Dana 44 axles from a JEEP GRANDE WAGONEER from the 1980's. The rear axle is a simple bolt in, after the spring pads on the axle are moved to fit the Binder springs. You must get new U-bolts and space the springs about an inch + to level the truck. The front is a little more complicated because the left spring perch on the front axle is cast into the housing and this makes centering the front axle a little more complicated because the front spring mounts on the frame have to be removed and set out from the frame about an inch, on each side. If you decide to buy WAGONEER D44's BE CAREFUL. One of the years had 2;73 ratio and it is just a little too high and this axle is somewhat limited in changing ratios. A ratio change is very pricey and it is much less costly to buy the ratio that you want by selecting the axle with it. On the off-chance that you do not know, the front and rear axle ratios must match. there are exceptions to this, but it may add a level of confusion if it were mentioned here, now.
The things that B72 suggested in his post are absolutely true. The resale of these vehicles is a crap-shoot. If the Binder is totally original, it will be used against the sale price and if there have been some well done upgrades, it is also likely that this will be used against the sale. You have to make up your mind to do this for yourself and do not try to please a bunch of crows that sit on the fence waiting for you to have a problem then they jump on your case and criticize the dickens out of it.
In keeping with the B72, your Binder will be greatly improved with better brakes and gear ratios. You will need a transfer case and fortunately the New Process 205 is available in a divorced model. There is on eBay. On the matter of driveshafts I have been able to get some really good deals at the auto recyclers. On two applications, the driveshafts were the correct length. Shortening a driveshaft is about $100, here. I have the lathe and equipment to shorten driveshafts, but you are too far away and in another country that expects you to have your work done at home.
You should know that there is no quick fix and just about anything that you do will cost some cash. It is very much to your advantage to make a written plan that will be a guide-line for the project. As you go into the project and after making lots of inquiries, write some prices down on the plan and keep a running total. If this is your first experience with this sort of thing, the plan is even more important. Without a plan for the build and an approximate cost, it is very easy for the project to become overwhelming and get pushed aside. I have/had a detailed plan for my 1940 Ford total rebuild and I originally budgeted for $50,000 and I put that money aside. In the 8 plus years that the Ford has been in the shop, the project cost has topped $62,400 as of last November, the upholstery, body and paint will push the budget to over $92,000. If this shocks the sh-- out of you, it is not a bad thing. My reason for mentioning this is to demonstrate that the finished project, with very few exceptions, land within the budget. OK, so the Ford is an extreme example, but that is only because I wandered away from the original plan and let a bunch of really good ideas take control of the build. IN the end, the Ford will be a real show stopper, but - - - - - - -
In 1990 I budgeted $25,000 to do a Diesel 4X4 with lots of creature comforts conversion on our R120 and I stayed within the budget. My son has budgeted about $25,000 for his L110 and he will probably not spend it all, because his Dad is has covered the cost of about half of the project already because I paid for the Cummins 4bta, transmission, transfer case and axles. He is my Kid and well worth it. I don't want him to leave the shop, in his L110 and have be embarrassed for any part of it. He works with a hundred or so mechanics who will surely look at every part and be critical.

There's no need to swap your front axle for disc brakes, this company has a front disc brake conversion for your truck. I have it on mine.

http://tsmmfg.com/1457.html

BTW: When looking at a DANA axle, try to find the BOM numbers. Every ADNA axle should have a BOM, or Bill of Materials. With this BM number a person can go onto the DANA web site and get the complete list of parts that was used to build the axle and where it was shipped including dates. If a person paid the price of digested hay for their Binder, that may be the last good deal, or first curse in the project. All of these, "It was running when we parked it" trucks were not parked because they were good looking, the determining factors were most likely parts or cost.
AND ANOTHER THINGEE: When a person measures the width of an axle, the industry standard for this measurement is from the outside to the outside surface , where the wheels are mounted.
If the axle is just a little too wide or a little narrow, this can be corrected, with the offset of the wheels so that the tires can be made to fit inside the fenders and not look like COP bate. Many areas reqire the tires to be covered by fenders or something. Check the regulations.

http://tsmmfg.com/1457.html

What a great idea.

http://tsmmfg.com/1457.html

What a great idea.

YES! definately will do that in the mean time before i ever get around to pulling axles

http://tsmmfg.com/1457.html

What a great idea.

http://tsmmfg.com/2050.html that says rear brakes for a 55 R-100 would they work for the L-112?