s-160 rear ratio's and engine size Page 2 L-, R- and S- Series Trucks Truck Talk
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6:58 pm
Yard Art
December 9, 2009
Offline
Hello;
If you loosen the drain plug 2 or 3 turns , if there is any water in the bottom of the pan, it will run out untill the oil hits the plug then retighten the plug.
Don Graves.
PDF 7:55 pm
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
Offline
Thanks guys for the pointers. I changed the oil and found no water. That was a relief. Tried some starting fluid and it would only crank. No spark. The bad part is the truck was converted to 12 volts. It has a newer regulator, but still a generator is on it. The people I bought it from only know it's 12 volts, nothing about how it was done. I hooked up the battery negative ground. There was no battery in it when I bought it. The battery cables matched the terminals this way and the starter cranked fast. No spark at the plugs. I didn't have a electrical tester with me so I had to stop. The distributor cranked counterclockwise.
I don't think this truck ever ventured away from the farm, so I wouldn't be surprised if that generator is still 6volt and is only on there to keep the belt tight, but somebody did install a 12 volt regulator so I guess the gen should be 12v. I pulled the coil wire and there was no corrosion there and the distributor cap looked new inside. I will be back at the truck next week with a tester. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg
9:23 pm
Rusty Driver
July 13, 2010
Offline
Try cleaning the points or put new points and condenser in and make sure the contacts on the distributor cap are clean
10:32 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
Offline
might make sure the gauges have been protected from 12v…if not, hitting them with continuous 12v will "let the smoke out of 'em"…other than that, like has been mentioned make sure the ignition parts are in good order. might squirt a little oil in the cylinders just to give her a little lube and seal the cylinders a little better…fuel, compression and fire are all you need! lol
john
-
"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
8:03 pm
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
Offline
I haven't had time to work on the truck but the line setting ticket came in. It is very poor quality. RA-129 2spd axle 6/33. It's not clear but 6/33 appears as a best guess.
Increased capacity rear brakes
Power Brakes. I didn't see anything power about the brakes. Maybe I better check again, but what should I look for?
264 engine and T15. What color would the engine be as original equipment? The engine serial# is listed but nothing is on the block. The pad is blank. The engine in there is an oxide red or close color. Could this be a warranty replacement?
Plus a few other things like electric wipers, 11" clutch, HD rear springs w/aux, heater, deluxe oil filter. 21 gal gas tank. Is that standard?
Thanks
8:22 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 16, 2009
Offline
On that size truck the booster would be frame mounted. Look for a vacuum hose running down the toward the frame.
6/33 would be 5.5:1 rear gear but that sounds high for that size truck, I would expect in the 6's for a rear gear. to be sure look on the head of the pinion for the tooth count, if it does say 6/33 then you do have 5.5 rear, but tooth count is more often odd then an even ratio like that, so tooth (contact) pattern doesn't repeat often. The tooth count is the best and most certian way to know what you have.
9:16 pm
Golden Anniversary
September 10, 2010
Offline
MT-97 lists for axle codes 1410,1411 & 1453 the ratio on the LST is
6.33:1 (Hi) / 8.81:1 (Low)
Fig. 14-5 here;
http://www.hansenwebdesign.com…..20Axle.pdf
Best to right click and open in new tab/window.
Surprisingly that is the lowest ratio listed.
9:21 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 16, 2009
Offline
ahh makes much more sense. when expressed 6/33 or 6-33 it is the common way to show tooth count, ratio is 6.33 or 6.33:1 that is why I was confused.
9:20 am
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
Offline
Thanks guys it now makes sense about the axle ratio. I hope to get to work some on the truck today. I'll look for that booster.
Is there any way to distinguish a 240 from a 264 if the pad is blank? I can see from the LST that it originally had a 264, but I don't think that engine is in it now, because the pad has no info.
Thanks
10:17 am
Golden Anniversary
December 16, 2009
Offline
I know of no fool-proof method to tell from the outside. If someone hung 264 2bbl intake and accessorys on a 240 there is no way to tell. The 264 had a 2bbl but other then that looked like a 240. the 220's had a solid front pulley while the 240 and 264 had a "rubber sandwitch" front damper.
1:17 pm
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
Offline
I've been neglecting the truck. I've got a million excuses, you can PM me for a partial list. I finally made it back over there yesterday. It had a new cap and rotor and points, but the points had a huge gap. I had my son make a video of it's 1st start. Lots of smoke in the engine compartment, the tail pipe was clean. It ran pretty good. I next need to install a fuel filter and maybe a new fuel pump. I had an electric fuel pump pumping from a gas can. You can hear the pump in the video when I get it up. The gas tank has some rust settlings, but should be ok with a good filter.
Old glass bowl fuel pump is not pumping. Once I get a good pump on it……
10:10 am
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
Offline
cornbinder89, Did IHC use casting numbers for their engine blocks? I'm thinking that different castings had different numbers. Other manufactures did this, but I don't know if IHC did and if they did use a different casting between the 240 and 264 what the numbers would be for each. I will look over my engine for a number.
Thanks
8:38 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 16, 2009
Offline
No idea, I'm a bigger truck guy mostly. The BLD series the only differance in the blocks between the 250 and 269 was the size of the liner and piston. I doubt they would have different cast numbers for a 240 and 264 but don't know for sure.
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