s-160 rear ratio's and engine size L-, R- and S- Series Trucks Truck Talk
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8:16 pm
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
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With a 2 spd rear what was the usual ratio? How many choices were there? What is a good cruising speed and mileage for the most common ratio?
Was only 1 engine size available for the S series trucks, up thru 160?
Thanks
PDF 11:24 pm
Freshly Restored
December 10, 2009
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Not a lot changed between the L, R, and S-series trucks. While I haven't found any S-series specific parts and service manuals online, the L and R parts and service manuals are a big help.
IF the S-series 2-speed rear axles are a continuation of the offerings on the R-series, here's what you might have:
Lineset code 1410…IH model # R-2464…Eaton 2-speed……………….ratios 5.142/7.15, 5.83/8.11, 6.33/8.81
………………1411…………………R-2467…Eaton 2-speed……………….ratios 5.142/7.15, 5.83/8.11, 6.33/8.81
………………1425…………………R-2470…IH 2-speed w/Timken E300 differential…ratios 6.13/8.10, 6.70/8.86
………………1426…………………R-2475…IH 2-speed w/Timken E300 differential…ratios 6.13/8.10, 6.70/8.86
Again, I can't guarantee that some of these didn't change between the R and the S-series trucks; but hopefully this might point you in the right direction.
6:39 am
Rusty Driver
December 28, 2009
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Was only 1 engine size available for the S series trucks, up thru 160?
No – – 220, 240 and 264 were available. The engine size is stamped on the front of the block just below the head.
9:37 am
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
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"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
9:37 am
Freshly Restored
December 10, 2009
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As far as a good cruising speed, that depends on the RPM level of the engine. Most of the IHC sixes were rated at around 3600 rpm, but the way IH rated their engines, that was the RPM level you could run them at under a load all day and not have any problems. It was NOT the maximum rpm's allowed.
So depending on the tire size and gearing, your top speed COULD be 70 MPH…or it COULD be 50.
Gas mileage? If you get 10 on a truck that size, you're probably doing great. Remember, it ain't a Kia. But with these sixes, unless you're loading them to somewhere near the limit, the mileage shouldn't fall off too drastically from what it is running unloaded.
Where's Ralph Goff when ya need him? He could probably answer these questions from a real-world standpoint.
12:23 pm
Rusty Driver
July 13, 2010
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The 282 and the 308 where available in the big trucks too
9:36 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 16, 2009
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Those were on bigger trucks then the 160.
11:39 pm
Rusty Driver
September 6, 2010
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6:32 am
Rusty Driver
December 28, 2009
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the 264 was available for the S series?
Yes, my 1956 S-140 4x4 had a straight-valve BD-264
2:43 pm
Rusty Driver
September 6, 2010
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11:07 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
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"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
3:37 am
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
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Appreciate the reply's. I'm trying to figure out the engine size in this truck. The pad where most engines have the engine serial number and model is blank on my truck I've read another post with this same problem. I'm thinking possibly my truck has a replacement engine. The engine is painted an iron oxide red color. I was hoping my truck has the 264 cu motor but the only difference I've seen for a 240 or 264 is if it has a 2 barrel carb it's a 264 and what I have is a 1 barrel. Is there any other visual differences I can check? If it is a replacement engine the old manifold and carb probably were retained.
This truck doesn't run yet so I can't tell if the Speedo/odometer works. Does the speedo register in 10ths or whole miles only? I have 127000 showing. Either 12700.0 or 127000.
Thanks
12:13 pm
Rusty Driver
December 17, 2009
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The speedo registers in tenths, so you have either 12,700.0 or (1)12,700.0. Wow, that would be fantastic if it was the 12,700!
10:52 pm
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
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The pedals don't have any wear and it might have the original tires on the front. It was a farm truck since 1959. I'm trying to get the line setting ticket. Mice got too much of the original and the seat back too… grrrrr. I know quite a bit of the history with this truck because the 2 brothers that owned from 1959 to 1988 it were the biggest farmers in the area where I grew up 45 years ago. I vaguely remember the truck back then. I'm having one of my boys make a video of the truck. Hope it turns out good. I'll show the building where it was stored, 1st start after 6 or 7 years etc.
I'm perplexed about the engine having a blank ID pad where the serial number should be. I have noticed other engines that were painted red also had blank ID pads from other threads also questioning what engine they had. My guess is this is a replacement engine. Possibly an expert will chime in about this situation.
Thanks
8:38 pm
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
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Today I went over to where my truck is stored. It's been a bad week for work and tooth pain, but nobody wants to hear about that so I'll keep it to the truck. I checked the fuel pump and it's working properly at least it is pumping. Drained the bad gas from the tank and attempted to start the truck with no joy. Didn't have much more time so I pulled the air cleaner to see if the accelerator pump was pumping down the throat of the carb. It was, but the air cleaner was full of water. Full to the point that there was very little oil (some emulsion)left in the air cleaner and I expect that water was running down the carb throat. My question is with this engine that has the exhaust manifold directly below the intake manifold and carb, would water seep into the exhaust pipe or would it run down into the intake, into the cylinders and end up in the crankcase? I didn't want to change the oil until I got the truck running, but if there is water in the crankcase there is no way to tell how much without draining it. Thanks for the help.
10:03 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
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i'm not sure, but i would pull the dipstick and see if the oil looks milky/white/gray; classic signs of oil contaminated with water. water in the air cleaner is not good. i would be careful before i ran the engine too much before i was sure of the amount of infiltration…just my opinion…
john
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"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
3:53 pm
Yard Art
January 23, 2012
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The oil on the stick looked clean, but I think I will change it. The oil would not have gotten a chance to mix because the engine was never run. the hood was not attached when I bought the truck, just laying on it and I bet it was off for quite a while, because somebody was trying to get it running, but couldn't.
4:17 pm
Golden Anniversary
July 25, 2010
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I know that Oil was mentioned, how was level on stick, was it Higher than normal? If so, even if water did not mix with oil it could still be there. Drain and look at what comes out, if any water comes out when draining, drop the pan and look the bottom over real good. Water but not much may not have done much if any damage. here is hoping no water or damage.
Lloyd
6:14 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
Offline6:29 pm
Freshly Restored
December 10, 2009
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Sounds as if you had the engine turning over, that's good. IF water did get into the crankcase, but oil on dipstick looked good, then the oil is laying in the bottom of the pan. Oil & water will stratify. I have seen water at the bottom of 3 million gallon "bunker oil" (ocean going ships fuel) storage tanks. And that stuff is thick, like a gravity of 8.0 to 11.0. If there was no churning/pumping of the oil water will not necessarily mix(emulsify). Any water will drain first. But, it don't take much.
Oil and filter change and a little gas down the carb throat, just might start.
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