1310 questions... hope I'm in the right place! Page 4 1000 Series Truck Talk
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10:08 pm
Pile of Parts
September 2, 2011
OfflineWell hello again everyone, yes John, in a roundabout sorta way I'm looking for an overdrive of sorts.
Most of you know how loud these older vehicles were on the roads, and seems as how mine never had a radio, it did not have any sound dampening material besides the headliner and floormat. I did some research and found that reflective insulation was a low cost solution. I only spent about $130 to put 120 square feet of 3/8 insulation in various parts of the truck. The first thing I did was the hood. in my research, I found that most of the sound of an engine is conveyed through the hood, to the windshield then into the passenger compartment. So I cut out patterns and glued 2=3 layers of the stuff in the pockets of the hood. now when I slam it closed, it goes thump, instead of the normal 4 second long clang lol.
The next thing I did was the doors. unfortunately I have no after pictures, but I will describe what I did. After cleaning the door thoroughly, I cut out 2 pieces that were the height of the inside of the door, and 16 inches wide (the width of the roll). I put some really tacky silicon I found (cant remember the name, it was a pretty strong adheisive) on the back, liberally of course, and stuck it on well. this made a 3/4 inch thick sound and temperature barrier. then I cut out enough peices to put 3 layers on the removable door panel, so when I screwed it into place the insulation was squished against the side of the door, the pictures will help make more sense.
3 layers were glued to this panel…
that attaches to this part, squishing the insulation between them
Then i moved on to the floor. I put my foot through it once… so I had to learn to MIG weld. My first bead turned out not too bad, especially for working on rust (I wore out 2 wire wheels making the surface workable). After the floor was fixed I painted it with some HD rust paint, 4 layers, 24 hours apart at 15 celcius. Then I cut out and glued down 2 layers of insulation all over the floor. I held the parts down with duct tape, so each piece was very tight, and was also sealed all the way around. It took a few days to get the floor done, there was a lot of fitting to do, especially around the seat mounts. after I had the insulation down, I covered it all in a heavy rubber floormat. This helped to tidy the cab up, especially behind the seat.
Then I did behind the seat. 3 layers, 4 in places. also covered in rubber mat. really really quieted up that panel.
I picked up a new steering wheel cap and different armrests to replace the worn out ones I had. also picked up a temp and oil pres guage, all for free!
I purchased a 300w amp, and 2 6X9 speakers rated at 300w max. I put the speakers in boxes behind the seat, and mounted the amp behind the seat as well. I have 2, 5 1/4 inch speakers on the tunnel, with a basic JVC head unit, makes it a 500w $500 stereo, all brand new, which is about middle of the line. I do not plan to make any additions, as that would require me to cut holes in the door or something, which I refuse to do. the whole system was installed by me, adding to the amount of things I am learning on this project.
I need to do something with the headliner, I havent taken it off yet, so I'm not sure what I'll do there.
I do beleive this concludes the work on the interior. the doors shut perfetly (spent a half hour cleaning and adjusting the latches) and the cab no longer echos or bangs, cant wait to take it for a drive!
On to engine work, in the next post.
10:18 pm
Pile of Parts
September 2, 2011
OfflineAlrighty, engine work!
The front seal was more of a front seive, so I go to fix it :)
before
rad hoses out
junk!
rad out
fan and shroud out
balancer off
the faulty part. it has no ridges left, and I could get a .005 feeler guage around pretty easy…
water pump off
timing gear cover
I like this… no chain to stretch
water pump shaft has a little wiggle, I think i'll take it apart to replace the bearing
I'll maybe ask my 200 ton press for some help. or I'll send it in as a core and get a new one…
timing cover cleaned and new gasket installed
form-a-gasket on both sides of the real gasket. LEAK NOw! I dare you..
balancer cleaned and ready to go
installed! bolts torqued to 20lb feet, and 10 minutes later 25 lb feet.
looks bad without the grill :/
That concludes that adventure. I wont put anything else back together until I get the water pump issue worked out. I have all new rad hoses and heater hoses, as well as new clamps. It took me 3 hours to do the whole job, and I estimate a shop would have charged me at least $800 to do what i did, assuming they put the whole thing back together as well. I'm pretty proud of myself, and this truck is sure teaching me a lot!
sorry for all the crappy pics, I like to drink strong coffee, add that and a cell phone camera and things get a little shaky, but at least i tried lol
questions and comments are welcome! thanks for reading!
10:38 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 13, 2009
Offline10:41 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
Offlinewow! you got a lot of work done! i would like to do a similar insulation project on my truck. let us know how it does at canceling road noise!
your first welds look pretty good!
your pics look ok to me…thanks for posting them!
john
-
"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
12:44 am
Golden Anniversary
September 10, 2010
OnlineYou mention in the water pump pic using a press,for what? The hub on the pump? Don't remove it,that's how they come new or reman. The type hub you have can be had with either 4 or 8 bolt holes in the front of hub. The 8 hole will work for either.
Did you or are you going to put a speedi/redi-sleeve on the crank? It would be worth the $$ and you'd likely never have that seal go bad for many a year.
National
99248
CR/SKF
99250
Uses the stock seal.
10:13 pm
Pile of Parts
September 2, 2011
OfflineScottso, whats this speedi/redi-sleeve your talking about? I'd like to know.
I found out I can replace the water pump for $115 if I turn in my old core. I plan on doing that.
What I was saying before, is I thought it was all press fit, the impeller and drive hub were pressed onto that shaft, and my 200 ton press could get them apart so I could fix the bearing. but $115 for a new unit isnt a bad deal I dont think.
I did some measurments of the frame this evening, and I drew up a model of it in google sketchup. I also made a mock of up the deck I would like to build. I would like input from you all, the more ideas the better!
I currently have the 7X10 foot metal frame from the last deck, and I plan to cut it to 6'8X9 That will make towing fifth wheel trailers easier
I plan to install a real bumper of sorts and a 2 inch receiver.
7 Pin and RV in the bed, and 7 pin, RV and 4 pin at the bumper.
a underdeck box or 4 will hopefully be put in, but probably not for a couple months after I finish the deck
any other thoughts?
Pics! they were taken from my phone off the computer screen so ya… thats why they look like crap
10:27 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
Offlinecool looking pics! if i wasn't so anti-google i would try that…
the speedy sleeve is a thin metal cylinder that fits over the bearing surface of the crankshaft to compensate for any wear that might be present from where the seal rides on it. in this way, the new seal fits tight against the surface of the shaft to form a perfect seal.
keep up the good work!
john
-
"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
10:47 pm
Pile of Parts
September 2, 2011
OfflineOh, cool Idea! I already compensated for the wear on the shaft by placing the seal a little further out than fully seated. that way the seal rides on the full sized shaft, and not in the groove left by the old seal. that program I used, I learned how to run it in school, and have become one of the best students in southern alberta at using it. It was very easy to learn, and I find it quite handy for visualizing ideas. it took my all of 15 minutes to draw up what you saw.
Thanks all!
Tyler
10:51 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
Offlineok, you talked me into sketchup. i'll stick it to them by using the free version. lol
john
-
"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
12:27 am
Golden Anniversary
September 10, 2010
OnlineHere's a link for SKF?Chicago Rawhide Speedi-Sleeve info. National seal call's their version Redi-Sleeve.
http://vsm.skf.com/en-US/Autom…..leeve.aspx
Can't say how well the method you used will work. Personally I wouldn't put much faith in the seal staying in that position.
5:21 pm
Pile of Parts
September 2, 2011
OfflineScott, I'm looking into that speedi-sleeve.
I got some goodies tonight!
Water pump, $130 :/ core charge $15
alternator/fan belts, 2 sets so I have a spare. $24 each :/
Pan gasket $12 13PSI Rad cap, $7
Valve cover gaskets $ 17
I hope to get some of this stuff put on tonight.
Valve covers and pan will hopefully get painted gloss black, as chipped and faded orange looks shabby. I have a sandblaster and a decent knowledge of surface prep so they should turn out alright.
I ordered this stuff yesterday, I was surprised when it was all there today. usually takes a week to get stuff around here.
Lemme know what ya think!
9:45 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
Offlinelooking good!
here's what my motor looks like with IH red and a black valve cover. not original, but…
john
-
"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
10:13 pm
Pile of Parts
September 2, 2011
OfflineWow John! That looks great! next year I think the whole engine will get painted. This year I'm just going through it mechanically and doing the interior. next winter I'll fix the body rust and make her gorgeous again. the engine will come out and hopefully look half as good as yours!
for the time being, I'm painting the new parts, and ones I have to take off to fix
I did the water pump tonight.
Before
cleaned up with new impeller and drive hub installed
First coat of primer
second coat
first coat of black. This is the same color I used on my Cub Cadet 123 that I refurbished last year
Second coat of black
I might give it three, depends on what it looks like tommorow.
The valve covers, thermostat housing, and air clearner will hopefully be the same color as the water pump
The oil pan will probably be IH white, just to add contrast and help troubleshooting leaks.
Next year I'll pull the engine and put it back to IH red. the things I paint black will probably stay that way, but the oil pan will go back to red.
anyone have any suggestions? post pics of how you painted your engines!
Thanks for looking! :)
10:20 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 13, 2009
Offline10:51 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
Offlinethanks! too bad that engines got a cracked block…i'm going to have to repaint my donor motor…just good ol' rattle can paint from the farm store!
keep up the good work!
john
-
"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
11:20 pm
Pile of Parts
September 2, 2011
OfflineSomeone wanna explain what GRD means? Ive never heard of it but it doesn't sound good. Thanks for the compliments guys!
11:38 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 13, 2009
OfflineYou can see in the 1st and 3rd pic the Green Diamond Logo above the Generator..
Jim
11:39 pm
Golden Anniversary
December 9, 2009
OfflineGRD = green diamond engine…early six cylinder IH engine.
by the way, thanks for getting me hooked on sketchup! lol now i'll never get to bed! lol
john
-
"in the words of Socrates, "i drank what?!"
8:55 am
Freshly Restored
December 10, 2009
Offlineyoung enthusiest
Here's a few of an 1978/79 SV345. Got it from forum member IrishMike. "Thanks Mike". I'm sure I will hear from 'suprjohn' about it again. I know he secretly likes the color. So much so that I noticed he has some very cool spark plug wires(laffin mao). Transmission & T-case are same color.
Dan
B4 pic
After pics
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