My '89 9670 build


For you lovers of the Class 8's and bigger.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 3417

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Thu May 10, 2018 1:48 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

I must be getting close, cause I allowed myself to order a set of steer tires. Back when I did heavy haul, I beefed up the front end, with 16K front springs and 6 spoke cast wheels. With this cabver and my Marmon they are "nose heavy" so I use Motor coach steer tires. They are the some footprint as a Std 11 r 22.5 but can carry 7800 per tire or better (some go over 8000lbs/tire). They require a nine inch extra capacity rim (a std rim is only good for 7400 lbs).
The down side is not many places stock them, so I have to order when I need them. That is where the match to an 11 r 22.5 come in handy. If need be you can use a 11 22.5 next to or across the steer axle from these tires, but with reduce load.
They are popular in Europe, where heavier axle weight are allowed.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 3417

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Tue Jun 05, 2018 7:20 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

Today's project was to make an "H" manifold (or is it an I?) for the Espar. It allows the coolant to flow directly to the heater when the engine is running (thru the vertical check valve) and let the Espar pump the coolant thru the heater when the engine is off.
On my other trucks I made this out of 3/4" copper tube with the fittings sweated on. This time I decided it was overkill and went with 1/2" Npt fittings which make the whole deal more compact.
Shut off valves allow me to change out the Espar without draining the whole system.
This is not the way Espar's instructions tell you to plumb it, but I have done 3 trucks now this way and have been very happy with the results. The only draw-back is you have to remember to put the heater control all the way to hot before starting the Espar.
Attachments
H Manifold.jpg
H manifold 2.jpg

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 3417

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:52 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

Things are really dragging. I am having problems with the A/C. It seams that the hose IHC used (replace all of them, 15 years ago with OEM) is neither std nor reduced diameter hose, so I can't find fittings to fit. I guess it is time to "re hose" again, this time making my own with std hose and beadlock fittings.
One of the newer replaced air bags is leaking. I had originals from the '84 I cut up that still hold! Likely have to replace but at least hold for now.
My nearest supplier for A/C stuff is Omaha, about 60 miles. I used to be able to mail order, but after my most recent order being so badly mis-managed, I have to find another mail order supplier. Local autoparts supply houses don't stock any of the stuff I need.
Got my signs for the side of the truck so I suppose I can work on those.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 3417

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Sun Jun 24, 2018 5:20 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

Today was the day for the voltage regulator. I run Delco 25 SI alternators on my trucks. These are also known as the "gray ghost" because they tend to outlast the engine they are used on. They are brushless, internally regulated "one wire" unit. The preform very well for what they were designed to do, recharge starting batteries and carry running loads.
Deep cycle battery packs need a different type of charging. If a deeply cycled battery pack is recharged with a conventional automotive style regulator, it can take days to fully re-charge. In stationary use, multi stage chargers are used to bring batteries up to charge in the shortest time. These fork lift style chargers vary the voltage supplied to the battery to bring it back fast without overheating or damage.
Two marine mfg make voltage regulators to mimic the "forklift charges" using an automotive style alternator. The two main mfg are Balmar (US) and Sterling (UK). I chose the Sterling unit as it better matches my needs and can be configured to control either the + or - side of the field. Balmar only can conrtol the + side. The Delco 25 SI is set-up to control the neg side, and while I could re configure, why?
My project today was to install one of these regulators on my truck. The truck has air start and the battery pack is used for running loads and "hotel" loads when the truck isn't running. So I had to modify the 25SI to work with the remote marine style regulator. I didn't want to damage or make changes that would render to Delco useless if the Sterling turns out to be a bad choice.
So I had to go into the sealed area where the stock voltage regulator is, and bring the field + and - connections outside the case. The 25SI while not "explosion proof" is the next thing to it, and would likely generate even if under water. The 25SI while termed a 1 wire unit, has a 2nd connection for an idiot light or relay connection, it connects to one phase before the diodes. Unfortunately they opted for a "pin" connection on the outside, and it isn't very sturdy or sound. My plan was to replace this with one of the field connection and use a threaded stud. I also didn't was to gut the original regulator in case of failure of the Sterling, I wanted to be able to revert to single voltage set regulator. I then needed to add a 2nd insulated feed thru alt case for the other side of the field. I kept the stock + supply to the field coil via the internal regulator, adding a jumper to the new stud thru the case. I removed the neg side of the field from the original reg and connected it to the other feed thru. If the Sterling failed on the road, I could open the back of the alternator, and re connect to the original reg still in place inside the alternator.
Got it all done and together and test run enough to know it goes to the high charge voltage as it should. from the time it took from when the engine was started to the point the battery reaches .3 volts below the set voltage, the reg computes how long to stay on the "bulk charge" voltage (for FLA cells, 14.8 v) before dropping to absorbsion and later float voltage. Float is 13.6 v, well below the 14.2 v of a std automotive reg.
So it never happened if there are no pictures:
Attachments
voltage reg.jpg
Voltage reg I'm useing
delco 25 si 3.jpg
External mods
Delco 25si.jpg
Internal modifications
Delco 25si 2.jpg
Delco as built
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 326

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 11:14 am

Post Sun Jun 24, 2018 6:32 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

Spot on.. with good information thank you !

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 3417

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Tue Jun 26, 2018 7:53 am

Re: My '89 9670 build

One thing I have yet to determine. The fast charging can speed up the charge to almost 1000% quicker than a single set point regulator, but at the expense of water usage. This mean using batteries with removable cell caps. I will have to see how fast it uses water. Until now, I could go a year or so before adding, Most places recommend monthly top up's. I'll have to see.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 3417

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Sun Jul 08, 2018 6:40 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

Today, I took the truck on the road for the 1st time in 11 years. It seamed to run good, but the output shaft seal from the front diff is leaking badly. It also feels like it has "square tires" but these are the same one that I had on the '83. It comes and goes, so am wondering if the shocks are bad or if it just needs a load on the suspension before going further with it. Also the 13 spd will not split to O/D and applying air direct to the peanut valve port will not shift it either. So work to do there. There is a little oil leak from the rear valve cover and on U bolt on the back axle is loose. More work.
It is considerably quieter than the '83. Hard to say what the power is like, bobtail. but does get down the road.
I was getting ready to install the Dakota digital ratio correction box, when I pulled the speedo and found this one has dip switches, so I re-programed it. I didn't remember it have them, the speedo on the 83 did not.
The heater/A/C moves a lot more air than the blower on the '83 does. I'm not sure why that would be?
Oil pressure is great, but oil temp settles in at 200 deg which seams hotter than my other truck. Not sure why but it could just be the sending unit or the gauge head. Oil pressure sits around 20 at 550 rpm and jumps to 43 well below 1200 rpm so I don't think I have a problem. I'll see what happens once I load it.
The multi stage voltage regulator works, and it shifted from bulk to float charge in the time I had it on the road.
So not ready to make money yet.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 3417

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Mon Jul 23, 2018 10:11 am

Re: My '89 9670 build

Well it's done! The fill plug on the rear axle wouldn't come out. 3 shops as well as I tried to get it out. A machinist got it out. Seal leaks taken care of. Tomorrow I leave for a load going to Montana. Been a long road to get to this point.

Site Admin
Site Admin

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Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:10 am

Location: Nampa, Idaho

Post Mon Jul 23, 2018 6:30 pm

Re: My '89 9670 build

Safe trip Sir. Hope all goes well.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 3417

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:28 pm

Location: Lyman, IA

Post Sun Sep 02, 2018 10:45 am

Re: My '89 9670 build

Last trip out the compressor pulley bearing locked up and burned the belt off. Went from needing A/C to needing heat on the same trip. The heater control valve was leaking so I had the manual valves on the block shut off.
Today was the day fix both. Fortunately I have a complete set of tools for working on the Harrison A-6. The engine fan clears the front of the clutch by less than 1/16th pf an inch! , have to roll the engine over until the fan is out of the way, then work blind (the fan shroud is in the way for line of sight) and pull the clutch plate and pulley. Once the pulley was off it was easy to press out the old bearing and press in the new, then back to working blind, putting the whole thing back on the compressor.
All that was childes play compared to replacing the heater control valve. The heater box is under the passenger seat, which in a cabover, is about 5 ft off the ground. Slip off the steps with your arms in the heater box and you'll snap your bones in a heart beat! The heater valve is in the bottom and one connection sticks through the floor so the heater hose can connect from the wheel well. The steel had rusted through from the salt and such thrown up for the tire. Getting the screws out was about as much fun as sticking your arms in a dispose all while it is on! Barely enough room to get one arm in and sharp edges every where! By the time I got it done, it looked like I went 30 minutes arm wrestling with a homicidal Bobcat!
I've done the job once before about 20 years ago, and remember then thinking I hope I never have to do it again.
Back to having heat and A/C
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