Fri May 24, 2019 8:27 am by cornbinder89
Yes, it can take being set at 35 amps or can be re set, but before you "pull the trigger" on another regulator that can't be returned, you need to find out why the one you have isn't working. A 45 amp regulator will control a 30-35 amp genny but will allow it to produce too much current which will burn it up if run at that rate for long. If the 45 amp unit isn't working, it is likely the 35 amp will not be either, as both are new. It is possible, the one you have now is defective, but not as likely as the wiring between the gen and the regulator is the cause.
Good grounds are just as important as good wires are for the hot side. The regulator is mounted with rubber to shield it from vibration, or at least mine are. That mean there must be a case ground, Originally that was handled by a metal tab on one of the mounting screws to the cab. and relied on the cab to chassie and chassie to engine bonding straps to complete the circuit. If any of thee are poor, it will not work. On the hot side, you need good wires from the genny to the regulator and from the regulator to the ammeter and battery.
You said in your 1st post " I bypassed the regulator and it worked". How and what did you observe that led you to this conclusion?
With the FIELD wire disconnected from the generator and the engine running faster then idle, and the field terminal on the GENERATOR grounded, you should see output on the ammeter, but don't do this for long.
The regulator controls the field ground to regulated both voltage and current, but it can only do that if both the regulator and the generator "see" the same ground. If there is a differential between then engine and body it will effect the regulation.
The only difference between the regulator you have now and the one you are considering is the current setting of the current regulator. So if this regulator is not totally defective, then you have other problems.