Freshly Restored
Posts: 211
Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 7:15 am
Disappointed - R112 (long post)
Most Concerning - now that I have it able to run on its own I believe I have what sounds like a rod knock. From what I'm reading online this is really hard to diagnose, especially for someone like me. It's definitely lower on the engine and it sounds like a knock, not a tap. Rod bearings seems to be affordable but the main bearing I've found are $350 for a set. Crazy. I really don't see myself pulling the engine and doing a full blown rebuild. The pistons are already stamped 30 over. The oil pan is very easy to drop and it looks like everything is right there. With not wanting to go with full blown rebuild, can I change the bearings with the engine in the truck? I've seen online where a lot of people have done it with success and where a lot of people don't recommend it. Honestly, this truck will be lucky to hit 500 miles per year. Most likely will only be 300 or so per year. I will have to have a couple more knowledgeable people listen to see if they think it could be something else.
There is a lot of smoke coming out the exhaust and I'm thinking it's oil. Blowby from the pistons? While not desirable this really doesn't bother me as long as it's not too extreme. With driving it so little I'm fine with dumping a quart in here and there.
It's only idled in the garage for an hour or so total and there is oil at the clutch housing weep hole. Rear main seal leak? I assume I can just let this one go as long as it's not too extreme since the oil should let itself out and not contaminate the clutch.
We set the valves cold. After having let it run a couple times now I pulled the valve cover the other day. Re-torqued the head bolts and checked cylinder 1 valves. They had to be a good 1/4" clearance. Not really sure how they could have changed from .020 to 1/4" but maybe there was just a bunch of gunk that cleared itself out and everything is seated better now. ???
Just rewired the truck. Battery doesn't appear to be charging. New voltage regulator. Generator was rebuilt. As far as I'm aware I've followed the instructions on how to polarize the generator. Ammeter gauge shows fluctuation for turning lights on but nothing happens when starting the truck and increasing rpms. I've also put a multimeter on the battery itself. It didn't change at all when starting and it only changed by about .04 volts when I increased rpm. Should this be charging all the time or is there something that triggers it to charge?
Water pump is like a water hose. Reached out to a couple places that haven't returned my call yet about rebuilding it.
Driver side rear axle is bent badly. I can tell it had been driven this way for some while because of the brake pad wear.
Had another hole show up in my gas tank even after having the shop fix it. It was right on the bottom so I drained the tank and put some JB Weld tank repair on and that seems to have worked for now.
Other smaller things too but that's all for now. End of rant.