37 D2 rear drum


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Post Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:04 pm

37 D2 rear drum

I'm trying to "YouTube my way through replacing the wheel cylinders. The front hubs went fine, on the rear hubs everything looks different. There is no dust cap etc. Just a large hex nut with a threaded hole though the center. It also has a "Tabbed Washer" behind it with several tabs pulled down in what appears to be a position to hold the nut. Do I just use a large socket on this? Would the thread on the driver's side be left handed? Is there a name for this type of set up?,so I can search for information. I'm not sure how to upload a photo but I'll try.....Thanks
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Rear hub

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Post Sun Jul 29, 2018 9:25 am

Re: 37 D2 rear drum

You will need to "straighten" the tabs on that washer to match the others, It more than likely has a small "tooth" on the inside hole that matches a "keyway" on the axle stub. If there is no cotter pin through the castle nut, then the tabbed washer was keeping it in place. Once the washer is flat and no cotter pin the castle nut should come off the threaded shaft, any socket to fit it should work. That Hub is tapered if I am not mistaken, you will more than likely need a puller that fastens to the studs and pushes into the dimple on the end of the spindle. Once you have the puller positioned correctly a few taps on the end of the rod that pushes into the spindle should help loosen it. DO NOT pull the drum, you will not like the results, Must pull by the studs. Others may have better advice, if you can wait for them to speak up.
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Sun Jul 29, 2018 9:28 am

Re: 37 D2 rear drum

It's a tapered axle with a keyway. Flatten the tab or tabs that are bent up against the nut. Then remove the nut with a socket. I suspect that both sides are right hand threads, but check to see if there's an
"L" stamped on the nut or shaft end on the passenger side to be sure. Once the nut is off, remove the washer and place the nut back on loosely so the drum won't fly off when pulled. Then you'll need a puller that pulls on the studs. Don't bang on the drum or try to pull the hub and drum from the outside of the drum, or you'll ruin a part that may be irreplaceable. Tighten the puller, hammer a little on the hub and heat if necessary. This type of puller is what you need.

CAL94800.JPG

Yard Art
Yard Art

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Location: Tacoma, WA

Post Sun Jul 29, 2018 10:43 am

Re: 37 D2 rear drum

Also patience. Keep the drum under tension and it may take a couple of days. Then hopefully that satisfying "clink" as it breaks free. Keeping the axle nut on loosely is very important.

Rookie
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Post Mon Jul 30, 2018 10:18 pm

Re: 37 D2 rear drum

This is exactly the kind of information I was hoping for....Thanks Gentleman!
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Thu Aug 09, 2018 7:24 pm

Re: 37 D2 rear drum

yea, and you can't just pull the drum by tightening the nut on the puller, you put a load on it then smack the end of the nut with a BFH, you need to shock the drum off,

sometimes they do come right off, most times though you gotta work for your rewards
Gentle Men! you can't fight in here! This is the war room!

Rookie
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Location: Northern Nevada

Post Tue Dec 25, 2018 6:31 pm

Re: 37 D2 rear drum

Image

Would one of these style work??
Or would it have to be like the one already pictured?
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Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Post Wed Dec 26, 2018 10:04 am

Re: 37 D2 rear drum

No, that one is not heavy duty enough and will not generate enough pulling force without bending.

Dean
Lifelong Kansan
Grew up with red paint
Moved off the farm 28 years ago.

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