replacement for the delco remy 1112355 distributor?

Hey everyone,

I have a 1950 L110 with the SD220 motor. it has a 12v conversion on it and i'm not getting any spark. I know the prev owner changed to a pointless system and it has a pertronix ignitor in it right now. today I put a new coil, new plug wires, new distributor cap and rotor in. i'm still now getting any spark and I tested the ignitor with a few methods I read on line and got no positive results from it. i'm to the point now where I think the ignitor is bad and the part itself is $110 so I was wondering if anyone knows of a distributor set up that comes with the pointless system that is interchangeable with the delco remy 1112355 distributor. I tried calling delco but they wont/cant give me any information because it is an obsolete part. so any help or ideas would be great! thanks everyone

Do you know which Pertronix Ignitor it has? The old 1167 had a sleeve with magnets in it that slipped over the shaft under the rotor. I had a couple of those go bad. The newer 1168LS only has the plate that bolts down. It senses the lobes on the shaft without the collar, and seems to work well. I know someone has tried to convert a chevy or olds electronic distributor, reversing the direction of turn, but it seems like a lot of extra work, and would probably be more expensive than just springing for a new Pertronix. My .02 dollar's worth.

I have the 1168ls pertronix on it and i'm 99% sure that it has gone bad but I was trying to figure out an alternative because every replacement cap I have gotten for it doesn't quite fit right and there is some wobble to the cap which I think maybe be contributing to my constant distributor problem.

The cap should be Standard Motor Parts #DR-413, NAPA #ECHRR142 (Hi-Perf) or RR95, BWD #C16.

Yeah i replaced it with both the Napa and the C16 part and both still have the wobble effect. But on the good note an update to my issue. The pertronix igniter is bad. I found all the original points in my parts box from the old farmer I bought it from and put them on and it fired right up. So now gotta buy the new igniter. On another note every company I talked to who talked to all their resources say there is no alternative distributor made for Delco rent 1112355. If your looking for aftermarket they said pretty much anything before 1967 you won't have much luck. Just for future info for everyone

For info, if you have any wobble at all, sounds like a re bush job, I had Advance Distributors in Shokopee MN do mine 2 years back, if it moves up and down at all. Its time and any wobble. As far as the pertronics, I have used it for at least 14 years. Advance is not cheap but buying a used one as far as I'm concerns will be worn out. There are many that will fit the I6 motors. There all pretty much the same, look in the Library section under manuals.
ON another note with the pertronics, don't use the spacer under the rotor, they are for the chevs which use the same number. Hope this info helps.

Thanks for the info and for the wobble thing it's not the whole distributor it's only the cap that wobbles on the distributor housing so I don't think a relish would fix it. With my oe cap it doesn't wobbled but the other caps do. And I plan on buying a new pertronix igniter but gotta wait till pay day.

Any chance the cap is turned 180 degrees and the little indexing nib isn't seating?

Just an update for that Pertronics breaker-less conversion?

They have improved it again and the current part number to fit Delco Dist #1100 0095 (Stock unit in K and KB Trucks which was superseded by model 1112361) is now #1168LSP6.
If you search by this part number you can find it cheaper than looking for it by the IHC truck model. They are around $90 on EBay.

It's a good improvement for an old truck!
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I do "no-start" diagnosis everyday and wish to add a few things:
I like what Pertronix does for overall performance over point ignition.
I have had Pertronix go out. It's best to buy TWO of them or be really good at throwing a set of points back in.
You CAN install other electronic ignition parts into your distributor but no one seems to want to modify anything. For example, Toyota Supra ignition parts worked just fine in my D -2 panel.
Testing for no-spark is easier if you have an old-fashioned test light.
The ignition coil you are using has to be protected with a ballast resistor or wire if it's designed to have that. If you don't know then it's time to RESEARCH. This is the FIRST thing you'd do.
Next, with key on you should have power on both coil primary terminals. Coil polarity and battery polarity should match.
With someone cranking the engine touch your grounded test light to the SWITCHED terminal on the coil. The terminal that the points side would be connected to.
You should see a very obvious flashing of the test light. Since the points/Pertronix intermittently grounds this side of the coil you can also connect your test light to the other side of the battery and the test light should still flash as engine is cranked.
If it fails these two tests the Pertronix is suspect as long as it is getting power, too. It needs power to operate.
To double check yourself you can temporarily connect another distributor, ground it and spin it in your hand. Does spark jump out of the coil, now?
Obviously, the coil wire should be out of the cap and near something grounded so you can check for spark.