There is lots of engineering into making a spring. Looks like, may not be just right. When I decided to change the spring-rate and spring pack size on my L110, I went to a spring shop. The shop asked for the static load and my expected axle travel distance.
I explained that I wanted a reduced spring pack with enough spring pieces left to control the transverse movement of the axles. Each axle will have a Pan-Hard
https://youtu.be/V44gtbsGiAE or Watts link control.
https://youtu.be/xWl3Cd7edgM. The main load carry would be from a Holland-Neway control valves linked to air springs and the axles. I want one leveling valve in the front and one leveling valve for each side, left and right, on the rear axle.
The spring shop said they checked each spring leaf for corrosion pitting then picked the best to make a set. The OEM spring components were re-tempered and arched. Each spring set had fewer leaves after the rebuild.
I will be using ENERGY SUSPENSION bushings for more spring control of "roll-over" of the springs.
Because the original spring perch pins were is terrible condition, I bored them, from them out from the back and made replacements. I made two styles of perch pin, external and internal thread.
All of this to say, get some help from a spring shop. Have a good look at the spring perches and check for damage. Do not reuse the spring "U" bolts. New "U" bolts are not expensive and the margin of safety improvement is important. Do not ignore the center bolt. It controls the axle location in relation to the spring.