Re: Which Voltage Regulator?
Posted: Fri May 24, 2019 2:55 pm
The reason to dis-connect the field wire is if the current or voltage exceeds the setting during the test, the regulator would try of take control of the generator and would end up with a direct short inside the regulator and could burn the points. Also jumping the arm and bat bypasses the reverse current relay, which is ok for a short test, but can burn the commutator if left connected with the engine stopped. Think of holding a electrical motor from turning and leaving it on, it will not take long to damage the motor.
The generator is grounded thru the case of the generator. The Generator is bolted to the block, but the block is mounted to the frame with rubber mounts. The body is also mounted to the frame with rubber mounts. You can't assume that the frame, block, battery and cab are all electrically connected without running bonding straps between all of them. No electrical system has ever been harmed by too many bonding straps. Start by bonding the body to the engine, engine to the frame and battery, body to frame and for good measure, generator case to voltage regulator case.
The generator is grounded thru the case of the generator. The Generator is bolted to the block, but the block is mounted to the frame with rubber mounts. The body is also mounted to the frame with rubber mounts. You can't assume that the frame, block, battery and cab are all electrically connected without running bonding straps between all of them. No electrical system has ever been harmed by too many bonding straps. Start by bonding the body to the engine, engine to the frame and battery, body to frame and for good measure, generator case to voltage regulator case.