L-110 Rear Drum Repair and Slip-Fit Modification

Thanks AZD for the post. I have the rear drums removed on my l110, after reading your post, I thought all I gotta do is ream the drum holes to 625 and drums should fit. I took my HF calipers and measured the knurled portion of the studs. I get .640 consistently with all 5. I have cut the swage off the studs and measured at base of stud.
I am going to remeasure with my brand name calipers to be sure of dia. By looking at the Dorman chart, there is a stud with .641 knurled dia. If the measurement come out to .640 is with good calipers, then I think I'll ream them out to.642 and be done, in theory. Won't eve bother replacing the studs.

AZD this is a great post, thanks. Similar to you, I've had my truck (52' L-112) for about 5 years and just want to get it on the road and use it for my errands around town. I've just been gathering up parts for it these last few years. I finally got it up on jack stands the other day and started to take it apart in order to redo the brakes and get them working. I have one hub/drum off so far, driver's front, which came off relatively pain-free. Then I went over to the passenger side (front and rear) and they are going to require more effort to remove so I stopped there, my time is limited during the week. Anyhow, the drum I did get off is definitely thin, not enough meat to have it turned and I'm going under the assumption that the other 3 will be the same. I found on a different post here, a company in Illinois that relines drums, J&G Relining. I have an inquiry with them to see what that cost would be. I read that your labor costs were cheap but if you had to put a price on the work you did could you come up with something? Did you only do the rear drums or all 4? I don't have a lath at my disposal so I would have to outsource that part. Just trying to weigh my options here. Great job on your end, appreciate the post. Thanks, Mike

goyanks,
There are options for replacement 110-series brake drums. Relining is a more expensive option that some people are taking for the 120-series drums, since replacements are unavailable.

Dean

Thanks Dean, that's great to hear. I'd never seen them on my usual part sources. Guess I need to be more aggressive in my searches, thanks for the help

Southland International Trucks in Lethbridge Alberta have new drums. They are not inexpensive. If this is the option of driving safely or not driving, maybe this is not a bad choice. https://southlandit.com/
I like to support this Canadian business and the owner. He is a very nice person and a major supporter of Old IHC show and shine events in Western Canada. The owner has a collection of restored Old IHC trucks.
Do not forget the exchange rate on USA dollars to Canadian dollars is like getting a major discount. Today, every US dollar will buy $1.34 Canadian. This is a 25% discount. Southern IH ships to USA.
Check out the complete list of restoration parts Southern have for your truck.

I found on a different post here, a company in Illinois that relines drums, J&G Relining. I have an inquiry with them to see what that cost would be. I read that your labor costs were cheap but if you had to put a price on the work you did could you come up with something? Did you only do the rear drums or all 4? I don't have a lath at my disposal so I would have to outsource that part. Just trying to weigh my options here.

I only did the rears, not the fronts, though the process would be nearly identical. My fronts looked great so no need.

On the possible cost, it's hard to say. My brother probably spent 4-6 hours total, though he's fairly meticulous about setup, etc. and time wasn't an issue. The old measure twice cut once thing, you know? So maybe in the range of half a day times whatever the shop rate is, plus materials.

Personally I wouldn't bother with re-lining half-ton drums. The new ones are maybe $55 total including shipping from Rock Auto. The studs are about 2-3 dollars each. When I had the drum swaged it cost about $40.

Honestly, if you can find a shop to swage the drums, that's what I'd do. Only this time I'd take the drum holes out to the stud knurl outer diameter rather than the inner. If swaging isn't an option, the hub mod is pretty slick. But like I mentioned, it was kind of a last resort.

Thanks for your kind words, and good luck with your truck.

thanks for the great advice guys, I'll let you know how it all goes