rewiring R150

I have the twin to your cab.

Yes you do. I think they are identical twins. Here is a pic of what I started with. Actually the cab and body was in very good shape except for the lower corners which I had to redo. The truck lived most of it's life in central Wa. which is dry and helped with it's condition. What model is yours?
Dennis

Well guys, my wiring is now done to a point, until I get further along with the front clip. The system checks out with a meter and the engine starts with the key, charges and all gauges work as they should. The Ron Francis wiring kit was very good for what I was trying to accomplish.

My cab is also from an R150. I weighed the frame and it is 906 pounds. Another 200 pounds of stuff off will reduce the weight to 700 pounds.
This frame is for our "R" Orrville Crewcab. See the thread in this forum in "R" build-off.
The frame is:
Overall length: 246 5/8 inches (6.264 meters)
Depth of frame at the centreline: 9 inches (22.86cm)
Top and bottom flange width: 3 inches (7.62cm)
The frame material is 5/16 inch (7.9375mm)
We will be using Ron Francis or American Autowire. I will never buy Painless Performance again. I had so many corrosion problems and their customer service was no help.

Almost 40 years ago I learned lacing of wiring for aircraft wiring. If you don't know what this is, open any radio built before 1960 or so and you'll see wiring that is tied or laced together then often shellacked to keep out moisture.
It would be a fun test of my old skills to see it done on my K's. It is labor intensive but would give it a period look. It produces a well built and sturdy harness, but not one than can easily be added too later, so better to add extra wire from the get-go.
Don't know if I'll ever get the time, but it is a dream of mine to try it.

Here's a couple pics that are more recent that are wiring related. Not necessarily period correct but should be clean and safe. Hopefully anyway. Knobs and things to follow. Ron Francis offers control knobs and bezels that match their light switch that came in the kit for other controls. That is where I am headed on that.
Glad the site is back
Dennis

That's an exceptionally clean look, you'll get oohs and aahs if you ever take it to a car show. I noticed you mounted the coil with its terminals facing down, is this what IH did with it originally or something you chose to do?

Thank you Mike. Here is a picture of a page in the operators manual showing the coil arrangement. Makes sense based on where the wires have to go. This happens to be the way mine was when disassembled. Your question caused me to investigate further.
All is good.
Dennis

I appreciate you taking the time to show me that. I'm always curious about the details on our old trucks

I have the cab, doors hood, grill and the frame for my R150. I did not buy all of the parts together, but they came from the same truck over two years.
My R truck was an orchard truck. The only time it was on public road was when it was driven from the dealer in 1953. It had a wood flatdeck and carried boxes of fruit out of the orchard. I did not buy the running gear.
My "R" sheetmetal is rust free from decades of dry barn storage, when not in service.