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L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 4:53 pm
by Terrell
Hello, I was wondering if there are any 12 V lamps they can be used with the original dash sockets on the 52 L that I’m working on, three of them are in really good shape I was just going to clean them up and attach a new wire to the spring-loaded center contact.

Re: L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 5:06 pm
by nikkinutshop
Yes is the simple answer. Google 12 volt replacement for the number on the bulbs you have.
I would not suggest using LED in the dash back-lighting. I have LED in the dash of my 1940 Ford and the LED do not dim. I need to take the front seats out so I can access the back of the gauges. This old Ford is that tight. In town at night this is not a problem. Out in the country, beyond the street lights, I am convinced it will be a situation.

Re: L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 10:36 am
by Terrell
That was the problem, there are no bulbs in any of the original sockets, I was hoping for a bulb number to start looking....
Thanks for the assistance,
T

Re: L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 11:45 am
by AZD
This chart should help. The originals may have been a #47 or #51 which are common small indicator lamps. I'd say pick a #53. And as nikki mentioned, skip the LEDs for dash lights. They are low current devices that won't dim with the 3-4 ohm resistor in the old headlight switches.

Bulb Cross.jpg

Re: L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 8:02 pm
by Dennis swWA
Terrell,
The parts book calls out (2) 125588 & (1) 115273. The 115273 is for the high beam indicator. If you google the numbers with lamp after it brings up some sights for availability.
My dash, R150, is disassembled and I think the same as yours. Bulb numbers are (2) GE 55 and (1) GE 51.
Please let us know what you come up with. In a few months I will be looking for the same think.
Good luck
Dennis
Forgot to mention that the bulb numbers are for 6V system.

Re: L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 5:53 am
by Buzzman72
AZD wrote:This chart should help. The originals may have been a #47 or #51 which are common small indicator lamps. I'd say pick a #53. And as nikki mentioned, skip the LEDs for dash lights. They are low current devices that won't dim with the 3-4 ohm resistor in the old headlight switches.

Bulb Cross.jpg


Thanks for the bulb chart! This would be a good one to download and keep on your own computer.

Re: L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 9:45 am
by Terrell
All, I've go my new sockets, bulbs and socket repair kits ordered from Ron Francis,I had planned on using one voltage reducer to power all of the gauges, but the Runtz voltage regulator that I have states to use one per gauge...has anyone got any input here? You can buy the L7805 voltage regulator very cheap on epay, doesn't look to be rocket science to wire them ( two wire per regulator)...I just didn't think the gauges would have that much of a current draw.....

T

Re: L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 9:57 am
by cornbinder89
You want a regulated supply to the gauges, something like this would work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-DC- ... SwbEJbMbdd

Re: L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 10:27 am
by Terrell
Cornbinder, Yes I agree the regulated supply is the way to go, one per gauge or one for all gauges?

THANKS,
T

Re: L110 dash lights and sockets

PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 12:38 pm
by cornbinder89
One for all is fine, If I were going to "convert" a 6 volt vehicle, I would sit down a figure out the stuff that is hard to change to 12 volt (wiper motor, gauges etc) and figure the max current and get a solid state convertor that could handle the current, and have one "6 volt buss" to supply these items.