finding true top dead center

I looked, and the airtex mechanical pump (it's new) on the motor puts out 20gph at 1800. should be enough? it runs and drives great, I just have to stay off the boost after 2500rpm till I figure it out. I brought down the boost from 10 to 5 for now. seemed to help a little.

Speaking of Airtex fuel pumps . . . I just got a complete refund including postage from Chev's of the 40's for an Airtex glass bowl pump for my '53 Chev. What a disgraceful piece of after market crap it was. If you want to see the photo essay on everything wrong with it, The thread where I posted it on the Yesterday's Tractors, Ford 9N, 2N, 8N Discussion Forum is titled,
The Case For OEM.
Here it is on page 4
Airtex Pump

Meanwhile, I picked up a great U.S. made fuel pump kit for my collection of good old ACDelco pumps from "Automotive Then and Now" . . . a work of art by comparison to the Airtex which, as I told the company, I'd be ashamed to disgrace my engine with.

One of the tractor guys who is a mechanic said he had two Airtex pumps that pumped way over pressure.

Anyway, that's my heads up.
I've got an electric pump on my R160 Cornbinder but I'm thinking of a rebuild kit for the mechanical pump on that '54 that now that I've found a good source for kits.

Terry

thanks for the info. i'll see if I have what s needed to check the pressure. do you know what a stock pump PSI is?

One thing about this type carb, you can pull the PV and make a Plexiglas cover and watch the fuel in the bowl while the engine is running, A small hole in the plexi and a piece of welding rod, and you can see if the fuel level drops under high speed load.
The PV wouldn't be operational while doing the test, but lower the rod until it hits the fuel and mark where it comes thru the plexi, then bring the engine up to speed and check again.
Generally American made carb'd stuff fuel pressure is in the 3-5 psi range. Imports can be 1.5-3
If I were working on your set-up I would T in a fuel pressure gauge and a vacuum gauge before the turbo, you already have a turbo gauge after the turbo to let you know what is going on there.
Also while doing the work on the dyno, a good large CO2 fire ext would be good to have close by.
The big thing is: you don't want to risk a backfire, a large backfire can take out the turbo, bent blades etc.

Also on the pic with the powervalve on the table, on the bottom of the valve are a bunch of "shims" that set the spring pressure, you could remove shims and change when the valve opens, more shims (more spring pressure) the earlyer it opens. I don't know if yours is built like this old one is, but I noticed all the shims, and that they can be added or removed without takeing the whole thing apart.

I'm gonna have to print this all out! your a wealth of knowledge! thank you

so I looked to see where you are, lyman iowa. I grew up mostly in Bedford, about an hour south east.

Neat little town, I pass thru it sometimes on my way up from Marysville, MO.

Been watching this post on my cell, been out of town, interesting. I get some rattle on a steep grade but not much. I would like to see where the hole will be drilled. BTW I have a mechanical and a electric pump inline and a fuel pressure gauge.

I picked up the turbo unit in 2011, I was asking to access the PV, back then with a used up 1904, I installed a 3 way tap off the pressure side of the in take, drill a hole at an angle thru the base. I don't recall if it helped or not, the site crashed with the old pics.

I'd leave the passage to the throttle bore open, it will keep the PV from getting full boost pressure, and all it needs to open is a drop in vacuum, once open it can't be forced any more open by pressure.