carburetor help

I need to do some carb work on my L130 for two reasons, 1. It will not run without some amount of choke, about a 1/4. 2. it leaks fuel. The previous owner had the truck for a long time, did some random work himself, and when I bought the truck he gave me a box of random parts. This included two extra carbs and a glass bowl style filer/pump. The carb in the truck is a Carter YF 964S. I also have a Carter YF 736SA, which looks to be in good condition with newer base mount, and The a third Carter carb with many numbers on it but none located where the other carbs have them. The question is, does it matter which one I rebuild and do I need to use the glass bowl and pump? It was not on the truck so my guess is no.

Thank you

The Carter YF 736SA is likely the stock carb. Not sure exactly what the YF 964S came on, but it likely wasn't an SD engine. So there's no telling what the jet size is, and whether or not it's suited for your engine.

The fuel pump with the built-in glass sediment bowl is fairly common, or was back in the day. As long as you have a filter somewhere between the tank and the carb, the sediment bowl type pump isn't a necessity.

The Carter YF 736SA is likely the stock carb. Not sure exactly what the YF 964S came on, but it likely wasn't an SD engine. So there's no telling what the jet size is, and whether or not it's suited for your engine.

The fuel pump with the built-in glass sediment bowl is fairly common, or was back in the day. As long as you have a filter somewhere between the tank and the carb, the sediment bowl type pump isn't a necessity.

A carb's job is meter fuel based on volume of air passing thru it. Jet size is what sets the ratio fuel to volume of air. Jet's should be the same regardless of what engine it was used on for a given altitude. There are minor exceptions to the rule, based on pulsation of air thru the carb, but generally if it is jetted right for one application, it will be for another as long as the application was at the same altitude. I read once where a carb guy tuned a 2bbl for a Ford 400 then placed it on a 2.3 four, it ran fine, and only needed to change the jet 1 size to make it ideal.
Look at it this way, a carb doesn't know what is pulling the air thru it, only the volume of air that passes thru the venturi.
Because the signal provided by venturi vacuum can be weak, and erratic when a bigger capacity carb is placed on a smaller engine, or conversely, a stronger signal when a small carb is placed on a big engine, the jet size and metering may need a slight adjustment to optimize it for that application.
A YF may be found on a number of engines, but all of them are likely to be under 300 CID an above 120 CID, so it should be in the ball park. The above "test" went from 400 CID to 140 CID and only needed minor changes, to optimize and would run fine as is.
Pick the best condition one that best matches the engine (throat size and linkage placement) and build it.
You can always "tweek" it later as need be.

I agree, CB. We have been battered here by "Carb Purists". Carbking, et al.
Find a carb with the same base and bolt arrangement and bolt it on!
I've seen Rochesters on D-2, Carter "one-size-fits-all" aftermarket carbs from Western Auto on everything, Holley on Dodge flathead, original "wonderful" Zenith carbs stuffed behind the seat.
Anybody who has frequented wrecking yards for any length of time can tell you the carburetor is the first thing to be removed and sold/stolen when new meat enters the yard. Not all these carburetors went back on the same make/model/year.
An adventurous spirit has been lost in our chosen hobby. Our fathers and grandfathers traded this stuff around all the time.
Get over being a "carb purist". We're not driving Duesenbergs, here.

By far, my favorite is the SU side draft carb, about as simple as you can get, but you need to add more than one to service most engines. Easly adjustable to altitude.
I have a 525 CID inline 6 that has a 1 bbl on it, and seen a Vega engine with a 4 bbl! (and a powerglide auto)!
Carbs, are like toilets, in the end, they all get the stuff down the hole!
That being said I prefer Zeniths and Carter (and Rochester), metering rod system over Holley's all or nothing "power valve".

TWO complaints about SU:
Keep in mind I have a beloved XKE with three SUs...
First complaint is that it should have a manual prime circuit AKA accel pump. A no start on XKE is very common. Just for initial starting...
Second complaint is that SU-equipped vehicles can't pass smog check to save their lives. That's why later versions had Stombergs. And "only" two.
BTW...Jag has an ELECTRIC fuel pump.

SU's lowered the main jet on the needle for enrichment, no "choke plate". I never had a problem starting my Volvo with SU's even well below 0.
The nice thing is with the jet height and float level adjustments, you could set it where it ran best. I never had to Smog anything with them as they were all exempt from that on the east coast.
I remember one trip picking my then girlfriend up a collage, we were going back north for CHristmas break, and it was -20 or so, The old Volvo with the open, un heated air cleaner was leaving a vapor trail like a jet or big diesel does when it gets that cold. Never skip'd a beat in that cold.
On my Marmon, I can tell the outside temp within about 3 deg , once the temp is near 0 by how long the vapor trail out the stack is.

Thanks for the info regarding my carbs and thanks for additional info regarding other carbs. There is always something to learn here. I was taking a closer look at the two carbs to make a decision on which to rebuild, and I notice there is a bit of a difference in the top. The lip where the air cleaner clamps on is not present on the 736SA carb, the one that was not on the truck. I was thinking it might be removable but that does not appear to be true. If I were to rebuild this carb, how would the air cleaner hosing clamp on (see pictures, carb 736SA is on the right)? From the responses to my first post, it does not appear that it matters which carb is rebuilt. it's more of a curious question regarding the two different top pieces. Thanks for the help, greatly appreciated.

Vee clamp type kind fell from favor, and either a bale and thru bolt or plain squeeze clamp mount for aircleaners became the norm.
So the plain neck carb will not work with the stock air filter, either run an aftermarket air cleaner or use the V neck carb.
The plain neck looks to be more recent, likely off some Ford 6

Carb on the left would be for your truck and air cleaner, the L, R, & S trucks used this V clamp style (mostly, Nothing absolute with IHC)

the straight smooth top one on the right is common in the K, KB trucks, the air cleaner on them has smooth wall connection,

so if you decide to rebuild/use the carb on the right, just search air cleaner for K, KB trucks, they look very similar to each other,

only your hair dresser would know it's not 100% correct.