OldIHC

I'm in the process of replacing the rear wheel hub bearings and seals on my 52' L110. In reading the section within the L-Line Service Manual it states to tighten the "inner adjusting nut" until a drag or bind is felt, then back off nut about 1/6" turn (see attached) . However I cannot find the "inner adjusting nut" in any of the diagrams shown? Can anyone help explain which nut they are referring to and/or provide details on properly adjusting the rear wheel bearings? Any and all help for a newbie will be greatly appreciated!

your axle is the top picture 2, you are reading directions for bottom picture 3,

bottom picture 3 is a 1 ton floating axle rear end with inner and outer bearings,

see second column of text, it says Note 1060 axle is adjusted by shims, your axle is a 1060 in pictures 1 & 2,

picture 3 is the one ton axle which you don't have that is adjusted by inner adjuster nut and outer lock nut,

on your axle you remove the bolts that hold backing plate/retainer plate/grease shield in place, there are a stack of thin shims that control proper bearing play,

if you keep shim in correct order per side you MAY be lucky after putting bearings & seals in that the clearance will be the same, you will probably need to remove/add to get proper clearance on both sides

NOTE: these rear axle bearings do NOT ride in rear axle oil they must be hand packed with wheel bearing grease,

see last note on page about removing plug on back of axle housing right by backing plate, that is where you add more grease to them,

take pictures of shim stack and retainer parts as they come off,

.
Have an experienced person help with bearing adjustment. To tight is as bad as too loose.
1/16 turn isnt much on a floating hub


Edit; Read Jons post , he knows there models ad his instrunctions are thorough.I was explaining tfe floating axle witch you dont have.

Thanks guys...truly appreciate the response!

Ok...next question. I was able to get the old bearing off the axle shaft but now I'm curious about best method for installing the new one since this is a tapered bearing cone? Do you have it pressed on or just tap it on until it won't go any further?

Thanks in advance for any help or instructions....

Tap them on laying the punch on the axle and tapping on the inner bearing race to seat them. They should not have to be driven hard. Lightly run a file arund the surface they are riding on looking for rough spots [ axle] . Take care impact on the rollers. . Clean clean.
Do you know how to pack with grease? Utube has demonstrations

Remember your shims as BRJ stated.

Any thoughts on where one can purchase a set of shim packs (or even shim material (.003 - .005)) for a 1060 rear axle. I need to add some shims for proper adjustment but only have what came off the truck originally and even they aren't in good shape.

Funny coincidence, I haven't posted in some time, but just yesterday I was doing the exact same job as you, same model truck and everything.

You can find thin shim stock all over the place. It may be called something else though, and some of it is free. Roofing flashing (usually aluminum, about .008") can be found at any hardware store. Soda or beer cans (aluminum about .003" maybe) should be easy enough to find, and often have the advantage of being full of soda or beer. Anything thicker will be a real pain to cut without special tools. You can punch accurate holes by sharpening the lip of an empty .44 or .45 cartridge with a Dremel tool. Use some wood as a base under the shim stock. Might not work so well on the thicker stuff.

This morning I was wondering about having a metal shop cut some out with a water jet, maybe 10-20 each in .003, .005, .010, and .020, but I'm not sure there's a big enough market to make it worth it. You could maybe go that rout on your own though.

One fun tip I learned the hard way: make sure BOTH rear wheels are off the ground when making the end play adjustment. If one side is down, it forces out the side you're working on. Seems obvious enough. At least it did the second time around.

My final adjustment: enough that I can feel and hear it, but more of a "tink" than a "slop" sound. Everything spins nice and free with just the slightest play.

good point on the wheels up while adjusting, I reconditioned a later Dana Posi out of a 63 travelall for my KB years ago, had problems till I got both sides up off the ground,

Trick I learned for cutting shim-stock. Clamp between two pieces of hard board (plywood,Masinite etc) and lay out you cuts on the wood and then drill or cut with a hole saw, needed holes, the wood and clamping force helps keep it from tearing when being cut.