Swapping out all fluids...what do I need?


IHC in the early to mid-fifties.

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Post Sat Sep 30, 2017 8:44 pm

Swapping out all fluids...what do I need?

Hey everybody. I may be beating a dead horse hear, but I was wondering if there's a link to what the basic fluids are involved with a 1951 L110 220ci inline 6 engine and "three on the tree" transmission? I'm talking what's the correct engine oil and amount. Correct antifreeze and amount. Transmission fluid and amount. Things like that. Any help would be appreciated.

Golden Jubilee
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Post Mon Oct 02, 2017 11:50 am

Re: Swapping out all fluids...what do I need?

Coolant change or flush is always scary. It can precipitate water pump, heater core or radiator failure.
My two cents.
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

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Post Mon Oct 02, 2017 6:15 pm

Re: Swapping out all fluids...what do I need?

The fluids tha were recomended in the books are more than likely obdolete by brand name. I often wondered if the recomended fluids were the oil companys that paid auto /truck manufacturers to use their products.
The fluids i would use a comparable fluids but to modern standards. Some fluids like A.T.F. you need to be careful that the rubber seals are compatable with the solvents. The seals can swell. Not many automatic trannys here.
Coolant flush is an acid. If the coolant looks good and clean I would bypass the flush. If the coolnt looks rusty flush it. A coolant flush does tell you if something is close to blowing out.
If the brakes and wheel cylinders/master cylinders are new I would use a synthetic brake fluid. They dont draw moisture. Im not sure if a brake system can just be flushed and changed to synthetic.
I get my high on heavy iron, the older and heavier the better I feel.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Location: Canada's left Coast

Post Mon Oct 02, 2017 6:51 pm

Re: Swapping out all fluids...what do I need?

If a person is going to change to DOT5 silicone brake fluid from an older non-silicone fluid. the system should be 100% rebuilt, including new brake lines. While the two fluids will remain and work together and not combine to make a new compound, the benefits of the non-hygroscopic silicone will be cancelled by the remaining old fluid still absorbing moisture and slowly corroding the brake system from the inside out.
I have said this before and it needs to be said again. DO NOT SHAKE ANY CONTAINER OF BRAKE FLUID. Microscopic and sometimes larger bubbles will be introduced into the brake fluid. On a DOT 4 or earlier, it could take a day or more for the bubbles to rise and leave. DOT5 could take a week. It is these tiny bubbles that give the brake pedal that spongy feeling when the bubbles compress under pressure.
DOT5 is the only brake fluid that can be used after years of storage even if the container has been opened. If you have been saving the old can of DOT4 or earlier, dispose of it safely. DOT5 will not damage paint.
Contrary to all of the bunk-house BS, DOT5 is not compressible. I have been using DOT5 for four decades and this product has always worked perfectly.
CAUTION: DOT5 will find the slightest bad connection and leak. DOT5 does not work well with a brake pressure switch. This archaic design should never be used if a person is capable of making a simple bracket for a mechanical switch.
It would seem to me that most switches are "Made over There"rather than in North America, I have experienced nearly a 100% failure on the pressure switches and less than 1% with the mechanical switches. I was fortunate to have a stock of Vintage- switches with closed-common-open terminals, MADE IN USA. (picture later) I make my adapter brackets. I will be using one of these mechanical switches on the pedal system on my son's L110 Shorty.
Attachments
L 110 BRAKE PEDAL (12) 1.jpg
where to put the switch on an L110
new brake switch 3.jpg
when the pedal returns, the switch is pushed to off. (1940 Ford)
new brake switch 2.jpg
new brake switch 1.jpg
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

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Post Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:02 pm

Re: Swapping out all fluids...what do I need?

I have has a rash of 90"s fords and lincoln products brake lines self distrudt
Either bad fluis or steel lines. Time to go D.O.T. 5
I get my high on heavy iron, the older and heavier the better I feel.

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:45 pm

Location: Canada's left Coast

Post Tue Oct 03, 2017 4:53 pm

Re: Swapping out all fluids...what do I need?

Are you taking anything for that "rash?"
https://youtu.be/6rRaUSwUNbQ
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Thinking risks being controversial and possibly being offensive
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Rusty Driver
Rusty Driver

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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:10 am

Post Tue Oct 03, 2017 6:38 pm

Re: Swapping out all fluids...what do I need?

Lots of WD40 and new brake lines.
Ya have to love at least one dumb blond.
I get my high on heavy iron, the older and heavier the better I feel.

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