Steering box replacement.

Well things are moving along well with the 53 build. I need some guidance or recommendations for the steering. The original manual box is all but frozen so I'm looking for alternatives. First would be where to locate a good factory style box? If that's not feasible what have you guys done? Anything available that would work without re-engineering the whole truck?
Greg

I put a Saginaw power steering box on our R120 to replace the OEM manual box. The box I used was from a Dodge Ramcharger 4X4. The Dodge 4X4 trucks from the 70s may have the same steering box. The Ramcharger power box mounting is similar to the original L,R, and S. I had a steel plate folded up by a local fabrication shop. The plate gave extra strength to the front frame area. I may have a picture.
The picture show a different steering box configuration for 4X4 cross steering. The strengthening plate would be the same but the power box should sit on the top,
The Pitman arm must be hung like a pendulum. The large end of the pitman arm that fits over the sector shaft may have double wide splines to index the arm to the sector shaft. Careful filing with a triangle file can convert the double wide spline into two splines and indexing the arm for your application is easy.
I cut the original IHC drag link and threaded it right hand. I bought a MOOG threaded sleeve to join the drag link to the MOOG rod end that fit the Saginaw Pitman arm with left hand threads. Rotating the sleeve will adjust the length of the draglink combination of Old IHC linkage and new parts. Nothing here is home fabricated and considered to be a suspect fail point. Do not forget to tighten the locking straps on the draglink sleeve. Several of the following companies make reversible Pitman Arms with all small splines so indexing can be 360 degrees and two option sides for the rod end.
For a steering column I used a 1977 GM/Chevy van tilt Saginaw steering column. This column has the key in the dash. There are more than a few aftermarket street rod suppliers of steering components to connect the column to the box. One of the bonuses of the Saginaw column is the built in and self cancelling turn signal. Scout also used the Saginaw tilt column without the column shift lever. This makes for a cleaner installation, look. I bought one of these Scout columns at http://scoutpluss.com/
Flaming River, http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/p ... AmLM8P8HAQ
Borgeson, http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2
Other companies that sell these products are http://www.jegs.com/v/Borgeson/153?item ... AsYY8P8HAQ
https://www.summitracing.com/int/search ... g-u-joints

If you ae using an original IHC SD engine, mounting the Saginaw pump to the engine was easy enough. I made a replacement bracket to hold an alternator and the steering pump on the right side of the engine. The hoses will be about a foot longer and this is not a big deal. One hose is a low pressure return and the other will need to withstand hydraulic pressure. If and when you have the hoses made up, it might be a mistake to say the hose will be used on a steering system. Some hydraulic hose builders will not want to take on the liability that may come with a failure, however small of a chance that might be.

That's the answer I was looking for. Any more pics of this particular setup?
Thanks
Greg

I do not have any pictures of the power steering adapt to an original 2 wheel drive. The 3/8" plate I used to strengthen the frame is the same outside dimension for two wheel drive and the pictured 4X4 configuration., in fact, the piece of steel plate, you see, is the same one that I used on our R120 when I converted it to power steering, two wheel drive. For this 4X4 conversion, Tabs had to be welded to the plate and "maybe" some of the side holes had to be drilled. I am using 7/16" grade 8 bolts to attach the power steering to the bracket. A little touch of Loctite 242 (blue) will help to retain the bolts.
I removed the OEM frame rivets and replaced the rivets with 3/8" grade * fine thread bolts (3/8" X 24 tpi) I use grade 8 Stover nuts with a hardened grade 8 washer against the frame, on the inside. I do not like to use Ny-Lock nuts for this application. Ny-Lock nuts are available in grade 8 and will certainly be strong enough. Our wet West Coast climate encourages moisture to get trapped behind the nylon and cause corrosion. This makes the fastener difficult to remove.
About in the centre of the angled original frame piece, I added another grade 8 fastener with a spacer between the frame and the plate rather than forcing this section of the frame to bend and conform.
When you go looking for a SAGINAW power steering box, it is important to make sure the steering wheel makes the pitman arm go in the direction you want to activate the steering linkage. Turn left and the wheels go right is not a good thing
The best way for you is to measure the frame section of your truck and have a plate cut and bent at a fabrication shop. DO NOT CUT AND WELD TWO PIECES TOGETHER. I have the welder's papers for the bottom of my cage, so I MIGHT be able to weld good enough, BUT, I would not take that chance.
I have posted all the information a person should need to make this happen. There is much more information here than I had when I first hatched the crazy idea. Get it right and this will place the builder above the rest of the herd. Think of this, you go to the local show and shine and steer your truck into a parking place with one finger.

I've been wanting to ask you more about your power steering conversion since I first read of it years ago Nikki. I haven't been seriously contemplating PS until recently and didn't want to bother you needlessly about it. Thank you for the detailed write-up. This may be another addition to my R in the near future.

CUT AND PASTE He wrote: "I haven't been seriously contemplating PS until recently and didn't want to bother you needlessly about it."
I am sure that your questions would not be a bother. If I have an answer or some convincing BS I will try to post something

Update.......After scouring the local junkyards I've found a replacement box that works very well. The box nikki mentioned is on national back order with no timeframe for availability. BUT the manual or power box from a 79-84 Toyota 4x4 is almost a bolt in. Of course some modifications are required but overall it's extremely easy.
I'll try to get some photos of this setup posted.
Greg

Thank you oldiron for posting a viable swap on the steering box. Toyota is really good stuff.
I'll stop and toot the "frame swap" horn, again..
If you were to use an entire Toyota pickup frame donor you'd get: IFS, EFI, disc brakes, power steering or very low effort manual steering, great highway gears, wonderful longevity, driveability and serviceability.
Ohhh, and a transmission that shifts gears at a modern pace...

oldiron,
Do you have any pics of the steering box. I have a S-120-4x4 with a Ross box. The toyota box sounds interesting.
Thanks in advance.