Flywheel Questions

I plan to replace the clutch on my 54 R-120, soon. Is there a possibility that the flywheel
cannot be resurfaced.. As- I've heard this can happen when they are exposed to too
much heat. The clutch is slipping just slightly- so, I don't think there is too much
heat build-up the the flywheel; however, I don't know for sure because I'm not experienced in these matters.
If I end up having to buy another flywheel, are they readily available?
Thanks for any help.
Paul

You can not know the condition of the flywheel until you see it with the clutch and pressure plate removed.
If the flywheel is heat checked the pressure plate will most likely show the same damage.
A professional surface reconditioning by surface grinding of the flywheel, a new clutch disc and pressure plate should have your truck back on the road.
I'm sure that You Tube will have a video.

Thank you.
That makes sense. I'll deal with it when I do the clutch.

It is good practice to support the transmission while the transmission is being removed and more important when installing it. If the transmission is allowed to hang on to clutch disc, the transmission input shaft will bend the splined center coupling and the clutch disc will wobble and not release.
Using an alignment tool for the clutch disc installation can make the alignment with the pilot bushing/bearing the center of the flywheel easier. If the disc is not centered it is nearly impossible to install the transmission.
It is important to tighten the fasteners that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel evenly to avoid bending the pressure plate. Use new fasteners and a torque wrench for correct torque and fasteners stretch. Old bolts / fasteners are inclined to snap when retorqued.

It is good practice to clean the threads for the bolts that secure the pressure plate to the flywheel. Buy and use a tap to "chase " the threads. OR, you could ask the flywheel grinder person to do it. This will be a good time to inspect the ring gear for wear and damage. SOMETIMES, the ring gear can be flipped to expose the other side of the teeth to the starter drive. This may not always be possible because of the design of the teeth.
You Tube has some good videos that will make this easier to understand.

Nikki-
Thanks so much for taking the time to share this info with me. I really appreciate it.
You're very generous.

Nikki-
You have an r-120..Does it have an 11inch or 10 inch clutch disc?
I reviewed some info from Wisconsin historical society, but I'm still not clear.
Thanks.

Our R120 running gear was given away to some person long forgotten. The 220SD and four speed was replaced, first with a 304 V8 and a A727 automatic. A few months later, a 6.9 Diesel V8 with a Ford C6 automatic ahead of a NP205 transfer case and Dana axles. The "R" stayed this way for the next 20 years and 222,000 miles, until I retired it and gave the remains to a guy called Mike. Getting that V8 Diesel into the "R" was a real challenge. Modifying the body and trying to keep it looking OEM took lots of time.
I am sorry that I am not able to offer any OEM Clutch information, but I hope you get some small enjoyment out of the life and times of my Dad's R120.
If I were to hazard a guess, I would suggest that the four speed would have had the larger clutch. The best way to get a response is to say anything and wait for the murder of crows of corrections to set it right.

Did you for get about this?...
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5378

I didn't actually.. In researching flywheels I've read that original clutch discs are sized specifically to
the flywheel (and that new info contradicts). I've not removed the clutch yet; so, I don't know if I have a 10 or 11.
Bottom line; it looks like I'll have to remove the clutch assembly and then find the parts.
I was hoping to have them before starting.
Thanks for the help.