1952 L110 rear axle shaft removal

The axle nut can't push against the drum. Drum has big clearance hole. A diagram would clear the fog for me at least. I have a new reprint manual that shows the 3/4 ton axle which is a different animal. Thanks for the replies.!

Did you remove the drum and hub and a unit, or did you force the drum off the hub?

Rear drum on an L110/112 is not swedged to the hub only the fronts are that way.

My bad, I thought they both were.

The rear drums were swedged on , I destroyed them removing them. I later found out about sweging. I have new drums 2316r's to replace. I have to figure out how to center new drums on hubs after I get them removed. I am trying to locate a hd puller to do the job. To center them up I was planning on turning the stud dia. down to match holes in drum for a size for size fit. That should center them up with no play, or acceptable little play. The drum could then be bolted on for truing on a lathe.I would hope the new drums are true, I will check that before cutting.

Hmm, perhaps someone else can speak up, Bedrockjon? The drums that I have come across, on the L 110/112, the fronts were swedged on the hub but the rears were not.
Maybe I am wrong, but that is what I have found on the ones I have worked with.

I had a look in my Canadian IHC parts book. The parts book shows the hub and the drum as two different part numbers. This applies to the front drum and hub and rear drum and hub parts. I might post pictures if there is any interest.

This truck was ordered new in n. Ca. , pretty sure it's not canadian, what would separate part #'s indicate ?

So if the rear drums were not swedged on some l110s, how were the drums centered ?

Just went through this myself. The rear drums on my 1952 L-110 were definitely swaged on. Well, one at least, as the other had suffered a farm fix sometime in its past and was wallowed out. There is no index ring on the hub to locate the drum. The wheel bolts are it.

Ultimately I had difficulty getting the drum swaged correctly on center and went a different route. My brother and I converted the stock rear hubs to slip fit with a center index. It worked out really well.

The new Raybestos drums are nice. Very true and machined well. One hang up will be the lug holes. They are 0.600” while the shoulder of the wheel stud is closer to 0.625”. I used homemade .600” center to allign the milling head, then bored it to .625”. You can then have it swaged. Honestly I think that would work. My guy wanted the drum holes to be .615 to bite the serrations on the new wheel bolts. No good. The cast iron didn’t like that. It broke and offset from center while being pressed. Go to .625 and it’ll probably work. I only did the slip fit thing so I’d never have to deal with this again.