OldIHC

the good thing about the INTERNATIONAL logo itself is they used it from 1941 to 1957 on all trucks except two ton & up,,

so finding some not pitted ones may be easier than making new ones,

not so much with the L-110 ones, very limited supply available.

That's good to know. So then the mounting pin locations were the same through those years.
If anyone is interested in selling one or a pair of non- pitted international emblems, just send me a private message

Did all the ash tray covers have Cream color for the International lettering? I see the ones in Nikkinutshop's emblem drawer were cream colored letters. I know mine is on my truck.

Since we are on emblems...anyone have a front hood emblem in good shape they would like to sell. My plastic one has been bonded together a few times and it is faded and lost its original colors. One made from metal with the diamonds engraved would hold up better.

Answer to three questions, 1. If no one comes up with a set of "international" I may have a set, remind me next week, am tied up with caring for my Mother till end of Month, and can not look to see what I have. 2. Everyone that I have seen has had the "cream" color on them unless repainted to match a dash. I am no expert. 3. Lots of luck, I think someone on the old site was going to try to make repro's but do not know and have not seen them back on yet. I have seen the metal ones come up once in a while on Fleabay. Yours looks a lot like mine. I think that if a person could make a mold of both inside and out, a casting could be done in Clear resin and painted.
Anyone out there remember who was thinking of doing that?

Awhile back, I was seeking out parts for another vehicle and ran across a company that makes and sells those plastic IH hood emblem inserts. It has the ruby red backgrounf, 2 white diamonds and a blue center diamond, just like the original...and as i recall it was WELL over $100.

If I can find the site again, I'll post it...but I ran across it totally by accident.

I hope you can find it.

HE SAID: When you made your own emblems for your projects, what material did you use and what was
the best way to polish them when finished? Did you add a clear coat to them?
I used a standard buffing wheel set-up that starts with a more aggressive sewn cotton wheel and grey compound. l then finished it off with a loose cotton buffing wheel and green compound.
I used aluminum for the base metal on the IH hubcaps and EFI pieces.
The long cowl stainless INTERNATIONAL was mounted on a piece of wood to stabilize the emblem and with better control is less likely that the buffing wheel will catch and destroy the badge. It is my limited experience that a little heat from polishing friction tends to make the final finish just a little finer. I have a polish preserver that I bought from a hot-rod shop. I do not remember the name, but I will check for the name tomorrow. I polished my LINCOLN wheels outer flange, for the FORD, about 10 years ago. The preserver has kept the wheels in a just polished condition. I do not use a clear-coat.
I made a wheel mount stand for the LINCOLN wheels from a free trailer hub. I was able to press the wheel against buffing wheel with some extra force. I controlled the wheel rotation with my gloved hand. When we polish the wheels for my son's "L", we will use a similar stand, adapted to the truck wheels.
I have not made any of the sided script because of the increased time required and the difficulty.
I have a product called LAB METAL. It is available in a high temperature version that will withstand powder coating ovens baking. If a person wants to take the time to detail a pitted INTERNATIONAL side emblem, it can be chromed with a cold spray on process. It is on YOUTUBE. Check it out.
There is no magic, just a bit of detailed work and lots of time. There are a few local laser CNC shops, in this area, who can make very detailed cuts. I am sure that a few sets of the INTERNATIONAL letters would not be a problem. Less money to spend, requires more personal time. More cash and anything can happen. I have the time.

some guy had 3-4 new old stock ones on ePay a few years back, very pretty, they went for big bucks$$$$$$$$$ I'm thinking over $400-$500 each? long ago. brain is weaker now,,,,

someone should be able to pop these with a 3-D printer.

Mister Pete 222, AKA TUBALCANE has a channel on You Tube. He does a lot of machine shop how to and casting. It is the metal casting videos that show the many details involved in making a part. There will be required some hours of careful work to make the original example perfect first. Not much point in casting a new part with the original problem.