OldIHC

On tvoltage regulator.jpg
he old site I posted the step down regulator thing, this is what IH used in the 50s. I will be going to 12 volt in the spring.

This is also a test of posting picsvoltage regulator.jpg

I will have to dig out your e-mail to me about this and see what I can find on something comparable out on the market today. For those of us who want to use our same Gauges this might be a path.
Lloyd

Just searching back Has anyone found one of these and does it work ? Is there anything anyone has heard of that will regulate 12v to 6v thanks dime-s130

[quote="kevin"]On tvoltage regulator.jpg
he old site I posted the step down regulator thing, this is what IH used in the 50s. I will be going to 12 volt in the spring.

This is also a test of posting picsvoltage regulator.jpg[/quote

date code says originally posted 12/1/2012, last year, this is an old posting that got back up to front.

I'd try something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141104178060?ss ... 868wt_1219
Some one else posted this before. Might need a "dummy load" to 2 amps to make it work with guages, easy to do with a power resistor.

The start of this thread was posted before the BIG Hack about Christmas time last year. That was when we were still on the old software.

I am going to post one of the voltage regulator things in the swap. NOS

This may likely solve the issue of these regulators...
I found this info by Googling one of the 6 IH pn's I had looked up. The only differences I could see with the IH regs. is the mounting and/or terminal type.
None of the IH's pn's are seemingly NLA except NOS,nor did any cross to an aftermarket brand.
The Ford & Chrysler do and I checked prices,which seem to start around $30 and go UP. They are the same bi-metal type used by IH and others,kinda pricey IMO.

What I found would cost about 5 bucks for the three electronic parts,quite a difference and I'm sure most of you have wire,connectors and heat shrink tubing. There are some already made units at around $50.00 but I didn't pursue them further.
If you can solder,you can make one easily in no time. For the money this is the way to go,you then have an electronic unit that won't "wearout" like a bi-metal will.

Here's some links I found...

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/tags.php?tag=cvr

I found the following 2 from the above.
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/show ... hlight=CVR
Post #6 by G.Womack has a link with schematics & parts list.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/show ... ash+guages

Unlike what the above post say's I found everything is available from Radio Shack.

More that show how easy it is...
http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/97/28/

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/11.html

http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/gauge-convert.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzLifw0W94g

Note the last comment in the above YT video,a much more viable explanation as to why instruments are 5-6 volts. I mean really,IF mfrs. had so many "extra" gauges on hand,why do they look so different???

This is a search with many of the bi-metal type regs. listed.
https://www.google.com/#q=Instrument+Cl ... or&start=0

This is a search for "Electronic parts stores online" for sources other than RS. Some are cheaper BUT some have minimums.
https://www.google.com/#q=electronic+pa ... res+online

Radio Shack (Hobby & Do-It-Yourself)
http://www.radioshack.com/category/inde ... Id=2032058

Personally I prefer soldering terminals to wire and rarely use crimp on,if I do and can "tin" the wire I do as it inhibits corrosion and solder being soft helps make a better crimp connection.

Hope this is helpful.

I think you'll find that you are think of this all wrong. The King Seeley system MUST have a pulsed signal to work correctly (this has been my obsevation) the early King Seeley gauges used on the K, D and may be early L and R series had the "pulse" unit biult into the sender, one each for oil pressure and temp. The later King Seeley system used one pulsed regulator ahead of the gauges that fed all gauges and used a flat resistance sender. Adding an additional pulsed regulator on a system that already has the pulse unit biult into the sender will not work correctly, nor will feeding a flat 5 volts to a system without a pulse.
On the early system with the pulsed senders, to use on 12 volts, you need to use a regulator the feeds a constant 7.2 volt to the guages and use the orignal type senders.
On a later system you need one pulse "regulator" ahead of the guages (regardless of input voltage 6 or 12 volt) and the more modern type flat resistance senders. This type system was used from sometime in the 50's up till the end of the light line for IHC and Also used by both Ford and Chry into at least the early 80's.
The pulse device shown is not a " regulator" that can be used to make a early 6 volt system comptable with 12 volt. They are two different designs and use two differnt senders . The output of this device is NOT a fixed 5 volt, but rather a voltage that varys between near 0 and near supply voltage (12 or 13.6 volts), If read with a meter it will adv around 5 volts, if connected to a test light, it will flash like a turn signal flasher. The important point is: its not a constant voltage but a pulsed output.
BTW I expermented with exactly what these guy are doing, useing T0-220 IC regulators and heat sinks on Chry gauges, and what I found was, while the guages worked, the accuracy was WAY off, and adjusting the voltage up or down to try and get the guages accuate, tended to make them less so. If you got the fuel gauge to read full with a full tank, the temp guage would be way off, if you got the temp gauge where it was reading correctly it would swing off the scale Or not move at all, with a small temp change, In otherwords, the gauge system did not work as it was designed. After much work I concluded that there was a REASON for the pulse. This was more or less confirmed when I learned about the early King Seeley guage system used in the K series. If you read the manuals about the gauges, it clearly states there is a pulse in the system, The early ones are in the senders, the later ones in the so called regulator ahead of the guages.
The best thing is to leave the system as it was designed and biuld or buy a regulator to supply the voltage it was desgned for.
You'll notice on all these site suggesting this biuld, They show them biulding the system, but none show the guages working nor do they show for example, a fuel tank empty then full and the reading on the gauge, or a temp probe in cold water then slowly heated to boiling and the guage, showing it working. I'm not saying they are being dis honest, but that they lack understanding on how the system works. If you read a Chry manual from the 70's they say the voltage is a pulse that adv near 5 volts, and that is where they get the idea that a constant 5 volts is what the system needs, but no where in the manual does it state that.