OldIHC

I'm looking for a Fran that would fit my l110 I was thinking a s10 frame would work but wanted to run it by u guys first

In my opinion, a Dodge Dakota frame is a better fit.

Dean

Ok awesome another question. Could u give me some specs on this truck maybe? Like tire sizes and HP things like that.. I'm about to start the restoration soon and I'm thinking about just fixing the i6 that's in it but not sure how fast it will go... Thank u so much!


Ps I'm kinda new at this and I'm a young buck so all the info is much appreciated!

these are not a fast running engine, but when running will do it all day long. Figure that a "sweet" spot in RPM will get you the best MPG and about 55MPH comfortably. I had mine up to 65MPH and RPM was higher. A change of a rear end to a late 80's/mid 90's ford explorer 8.8 rear and higher gear ratio will get you 65MPH and decent RPM. Also gives you better brakes and there are upgrades(disk conversion) you can do to the front brakes. You could install a Turbo on the motor, one of the Members has done that, he is the leading mind here on that little change(not cheap) There are some other things you can do to improve the performance of the motor, but Still a Work horse motor, not a race horse.
Lots more advice, from much more knowledgeable folks than me. If you do a body transplant to a "newer" frame, there are lots of other considerations. Just check some of the build threads. Keep in mind, these are a Straight frame not like the newer ones that have a Hump over the rear axle, you will have to take out floor in bed and lose lots of carry space to fit a newer frame, to make the Cab and bed look correct.
Welcome to the Journey! Get it running and safe, drive it as original as you can get it to see if it is really what you want or if you want to change, then you have a better Idea what way to go.
My Thoughts.

It used to be that, on a lot of forums like this one, someone would tell you, "Buy a manual" on your truck and kinda brush you off. Manuals were often expensive, and sometimes hard to find.

But here at OldIHC, some of the members have posted the manuals online. There's a category called "The Library" where you can find a lot of this information online, on MANY different sites. For the L-series, Nick Waringa's site is GREAT!

http://nwaringa.wordpress.com/manuals/

The engine section of the CTS-11 factory service manual will give you engine specs. Tire specs are likely found in the owners manual. And often the parts manual will give you a better exploded view of how parts are assembled than the service manual does.

Hope you and your truck have a long and happy life together, and I hope that we can be of assistance to you from time to time.

On the subject of how fast these trucks will go...it's all a function of the rear end gearing. My dad had a '52 L-110 with the 3.73:1 rear axle, and it would run 70 with ease, and 80 was a little more of a strain. Of course, Pappy was a dealer back then, and he intended to impress people who might otherwise buy a Ford or a Chevy. So he generally loaded the bed more than it should've been when he had to haul something, and when it was empty, he "drove it like he stole it."

The SD-220 was a "straight-valve" engine--as opposed to some later BD sixes which were "tilt-valve" engines. The straight valve engines had a reputation for "dropping" a valve now and then, but that was usually only in trucks that had been used hard. [Yep, Pappy dropped an exhaust valve in the '52 one night...piston survived, but the head of the exhaust valve didn't. That was around 80,000 HARD miles on that engine.]

The '96-up Explorer rear axles are a preferred swap, because they're the correct width. Axle perches for the stock springs are narrower than the Ford uses, but those perches are available.

emortega321,

Try not to overwhelm yourself. Once you begin tearing the truck apart and think about all the things you want to do or change and look you at all the pieces...it can seem overwhelming. As others have mentioned in past posts, try to figure out the plan you want to take. Maybe get it running as is at first...or see what engine work is needed. Get the brakes operating properly. How is the transmission.... etc. Try not to set your sites on having it perfect in 2 months....it is going to take time and patience and a cash budget.

While newer crate engines will get you better mileage and reliability...they also have to be adapted to transmissions and possible frame alterations and cost more initially.

As Buzzman pointed out...read all you can. Read past posts...search on many topics...see what others are doing or have done. Educate yourself and ask questions...some questions may seem silly but you want to learn. Enjoy the challenges and the rewards of getting a classic truck of the past on the road again.

I saw in your past post you have family or relatives with 600+ old cars and trucks. That is awesome. You are out west right? Be fun to tour the classic graveyard...before nature is to hard on the old souls.

Trust me there not going anywhere... They have been out here 40+ years Nd they still look great... Not a lot of humidity so not a lot of rust

You guys are awesome btw thank u so much!!!!

This is not advice, but only my point of view on these things. I just do not understand why someone would change out a frame while the original frame is in good and or working condition. Everything IHC fits the original frame without modification. I am the guy who puts a non IHC engine into the IH frame and then makes the adjustments around the engine change because I think it easier and has the greatest chance of success. Think of this. If you put the IHC sheetmetal on another frame, nothing fits. Not the running boards, cab mounts or the box. The radiator will not fit and the grill is foreign to the Dakota. Nothing is there to support the front sheetmetal. New frames are often curved down and the IHC box and cab were made for a ladder style frame. SO, you don't like the OLD IHC engine and that Dakota engine looks like a good option. Why not fit it to the original frame in the Binder? IH steering column is not designed to work with anything except an inline engine. In either conversion, the steering will have to be modified and mostly replaced. Rear axles transfer easily. I have never looked at a Dakota front frame, and suspension, so I co not know anything, but it might be able to be transferred. On the off-chance that you have not had a look, my son and I are building a 1952 L110 and posting the build on this forum under 1952 L110 Shorty and it appears in the L,R and S build off.
So you want to do it the easy way? Buy a front disc brake kit. Change the rear axle for a Ford Explorer 8.8. If the great lump of Old IHC iron needs some freshening, there are options. Our choice was a CUMMINS 4bta. It fits, it clears everything, it weighs less than the original lump, has more than double the horsepower and triple the torque. The fuel economy is nearly double and the WOW factor is off the hook. You cannot afford a CUMMINS 4bta is an excuse that may not be true. I bought our 4bta for $3250.00, complete with the TH475 automatic. There was a good running 4bta with a 727 automatic on Craigslist in this area. The seller was asking $2500. just a few more things to think about.