Torque boost

If you wanted to boost torque in a 220 how does that work? just curious

http://www.keystoneturbollc.com/id80.html

Now...if your question was serious, use your search engine...I don't care if it's Google, Bing, Yahoo, or whatever. Learn all you can about the relationship of torque to horsepower.

THEN use it again, and learn all you can about the relationship of bore, stroke, and rod length to engine torque and horsepower. Learn about rod length-to-stroke ratio, and what it means...and what changing it does.

THEN come back and ask your question. I want you to be able to understand what you're asking, and what you need to know, before you ask again. Realize that, for a particular engine design, if everything else is equal, that engine doesn't care whose name is on the valve cover; the science is the same no matter whether it's an International, a Ford, a Chevy, or whatever.

Turbocharging is a fast--but not necessarily cheap--way to increase engine torque output. Simply put, it's an artificial way to increase compression. It won't increase your RPM range, so the first caveat with a turbo kit is to NOT over-rev that engine.

If I were a religious man, I would say AMEN to B72.

also the runner length of the intake manifold affect torque. Generally the longer the runner the greater the torque.

also the runner length of the intake manifold affect torque. Generally the longer the runner the greater the torque.

In particular, look for information on the '50's and early '60's Dodge "Red Ram" or "Ramcharger" V8 intake manifolds...the ones that had the carburetors sitting over the valve covers. [No, the 220 isn't a V8...but the principle can be applied to any engine.] They look a lot like this, when they're off the engine:

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/5/44/34324445-386-V8-413-Long-Ram-Induction-Intake-Manif.jpg

The "hyperpack" 4 BBL mainfold for the Dodge slant 6 was another good example. The leinth of the runners effects the tuned RPM band in which it boost torque. It isn't an across the board gain, rather a gain in a small RPM band and can reduce it at other RPMs.
Chry Corp did a lot with tuneing intakes the 60's.

I am going to throw this out there just for you to consider Ethan,

I've purchased & parted a lot of L, R, S, trucks thru the years, one of the common things I've seen with these was: if the motor was bad 4 out of 5 times it was a thrown rod.

over revving is a known culprit for throwing rods, (among other things, please fellas, I'm not looking for a fight on causes of rod throwing here).

if the truck I bought had Mags & stock motor, I would safely guess it was over revved.

Kevin did a great job turboing his truck, I'm gonna go out on a limb to say he doesn't race it. I could be wrong,

from what you've posted in the past, I get the impression you are looking to make this a hotrod, or at least the ability to punch it off the line,

that being said, no matter what you do to this motor, turbo, split manifolds, multi carbs or what ever, you still have a 60+ yr. old low RPM motor that was made for work not for speed,

if you want a race truck, maybe a transplant to a built made for speed motor/running gear is the direction you might consider.

it's your truck, do what you want, just be a shame to sink a ton of $$ into making original motor go fast just to have it blow up.

My Thoughts on Go Fast/or Sleeper is keep the International for the slow cruising, unless you want to spend lots of time/money, already going to do that. Buy a Ford/Chevy and go to town on the go fast side, lots of aftermarket parts and support for that.
Take a good look at some of the fellows build threads and ask them some questions on (who, what, how, why, cost) of things they did.
Smog goes the route of transplant of body on different frame or combination of new and old. Others put in newer onto older frame.
NO matter what you do, make sure it is safe.
Personally, I like the two separate vehicle approach, one for cruising and one for speed.
As many people on this forum is almost as many ways to do things.

lloyd

These engines were designed for under 4000 rpm max. Then again, the ag versions [C221, C263, C291, C301] were designed for under 2500 rpm max. Yet tractor pullers have the ag versions running north of 5000 rpm...how do they do it?

Money. And LOTS of it.

Google Murphy's Motor Service, write down their phone number, and then call Jeff and ask what they have to do to one of these motors to make it last at 5000 rpm. It sure ain't a matter of simply changing the cam, bolting on an intake, and crankin' 'er up.

So you've got three choices with one of these IH sixes.

1) You accept it for what it is, and keep the RPM's under 4000.

2) You spend bank on it, and build it...knowing that a mild SBC will still outrun and outrev it, for less than 1/3 what you spent.

3) You rev the hell out of it anyway, and end up with "excessive crankcase ventilation" where a rod decided it was going to exit...unless your straight-valve engine decides to hock up an exhaust valve and spit it out first.

Your truck; your call.