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Weight

PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:35 pm
by Ethan
Does anyone know how much the BD-220 engine weighs? Im looking for a good HD engine stand and I want to make sure the weight rating is heavy enough for this motor.

Re: Weight

PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:21 pm
by lbesq
Ethan wrote:Does anyone know how much the BD-220 engine weighs? Im looking for a good HD engine stand and I want to make sure the weight rating is heavy enough for this motor.

Ethan, check this page out: http://oldihc.wordpress.com/category/fr ... ns/engine/

Re: Weight

PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:36 pm
by Ralph Goff
My B series operators manual gives the weights for all the engines. They list as follows:
BD220 549 pounds
BD240 570 pounds
BD264 600 pounds
BD282 672 pounds
BD308 686 pounds

It has the numbers for the V8 engines as well if anybody needs them.

Re: Weight

PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:42 pm
by Ethan
Thanks!

Re: Weight

PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 8:53 pm
by cornbinder89
Be careful when looking for an engine stand, the weights listed may be close in,like for a V8 but the inline six puts the weight further out and can require a much stonger stand, or one with a 2nd bracket to hold the front of the engine. Easy to get the weight outside of the base when working on an inline six, even if you keep it inside, it can be very tippy.

Re: Weight

PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:24 pm
by Ethan
thanks for the tip ill keep it in mind

Re: Weight

PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 10:12 am
by Buzzman72
When turning an inline six cylinder engine from top-to-bottom or bottom-to-top when it's bolted to an engine stand, make sure you have someone with you to help steady the engine! I learned this the hard way when working on an AMC/Jeep 4.0 six. When turning the engine on the stand, at one point there was more weight to one side than the other, and the entire stand began to tip over. I was able to keep it from hitting the floor, but just barely.

This is why I don't like an engine stand with a T-shaped frame...which is what most of the cheap ones are.

Best bet, of course, is a more expensive stand, with a wider stance on the unsupported end of the engine. I inherited that cheap stand, and I understand why it wasn't used any more than it was. If you already have one of the cheap stands, I recommend you modify it to make it more stable. That just might prevent an injury, to yourself or to someone else. Now, don't get me wrong; I'm all for saving money. Just not where your personal safety may be at stake. The cheapest lessons are the ones where someone else has paid the price. On this one, I already bought your ticket for you.

Re: Weight

PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 10:23 pm
by Ethan
is 80 dollars cheap?

Re: Weight

PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 11:01 pm
by lbesq
If you find a good used engine stand that does not have the t leg on it, but has an H or similar type leg for eighty, that might be a good buy. Just make sure that the legs stick out at least as far as the engine.

Re: Weight

PostPosted: Sat Feb 01, 2014 4:03 pm
by Buzzman72
"Cheap" is more about quality than about price.
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Stand 1 is cheap. Avoid it unless you can't afford anything else.

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Stand 2 is a better, but there's still room for improvement.

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Stand 3 is a lot more stable...and probably a lot more expensive.

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Stand 4 has a crank and a gearbox, making the rotation of the block on the stand a LOT easier. That's a "Cadillac" of stands...usually not necessary unless you're doing heavy engines as a habit.

The dangerous ones are like Stand 1. THEY WILL TIP OVER. Don't ask me how I know this.