Manifold Heat Control Valve

My engine does not have the manifold heat control valve.

http://www.earlytimeschapter.org/manifo ... valve.html

Sorry, hit post too soon.

Is it ok to have a plate inserted to have exhaust not heat up intake manifold if not driving in winter conditions. I realize the truck will need to warm up a little longer. Anyone else doing this or is this not recommended? I included a link to an article about the heat control valve.

Also, are the manifold heat control valves still available for these manifolds? Appreciate the assistance.

These International sixes have a reputation for being "cold-natured" and needing more warm-up time that competitive makes. True or not, that's the reputation they have. Now, I'm not going to bore you with a talk about how these engines are more efficient when the engine is warm enough for proper fuel atomization; you already know that.

Obviously, there's no place on the internet to check availability of the correct parts for these old trucks. But occasionally there's a "work-around" for that...if you remember that the C-221 ag engine was based on the SD-220 and BD-220 truck engine.

So I went to the online parts catalog at http://www.caseih.com and looked up the corresponding parts for a Farmall 460 tractor. Then I compared those part numbers with the corresponding parts in the MT-63 truck parts catalog for the L-110/L-120. The only part numbers that are different between the two engines are the plate [371098 R1 on the 460, 70212 R1 on the SD-220] and and the weight on the pivot shaft [85699 R1 on the 460, 82960 R1 on the SD-220].

So what does all this mean? Depends on how committed you are to replacing the parts. From the tone of your post, it sounds like you're not really committed to it, but then I may be reading your thoughts wrong. Bottom line is, it's your truck, so it's up to you to decide whether you want it or not. I've seen these trucks run with these heat control valves inoperative, so apparently they will run with or without it. You have to decide what's important to you, and go from there.

The bimetallic spring is 82958 R2; the shaft is 82958R1; the bushing on each end of the shaft is 69443 R1, and it takes 2 of them. The plate for the truck engine is 70212 R1, and the weight is 82960 R1.

someone removed yours, I've had truck with em frozen solid, not knowing if it was open or closed, they still seemed to run OK.

I myself think a Ferd is way more cold blooded than an IHC, I just float the choke out a little if it's winter, till it warms all the way up.

I dont think mine has one either not sure i'll know when i pull it apart but it runs great regardless

Buzzman72,

Initially I was thinking of installing a plate and having it locked in position to allow the exhaust gasses to just exit out the tailpipe and not open to the intake manifold. It seems for warmer weather driving that will work...with some extra choking on the cooler spring and fall days.

On the other hand, if the parts are still available, It's nice to have the truck set up as intended for best running performance assuming it really matters to have it for non winter driving.

I was looking for pros and cons from others on their set-ups. If these valves tend to freeze fast in the position of normal running..meaning full exhausting of gases to the exhaust pipe and they run fine...then I may be just adding a future maintenance issue down the road by reinstalling one. The ole saying.... if it ain't broke don't fix it...but in some cases if it is broke and still runs fine...why fix it.

And while we are on it, the bimetallic springs that are usually bent busted or gone and made form unobtainium, can be had at Jimmy Carter Truck Parts. ( http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/ ) They are for Cheby's in line 6's but i got one and it works just fine if anyone needs one.

The ones for the 460 Farmall are the same part number as the SD-220's, and last I checked they were still available through Case-IH farm equipment dealers.

Buzzman, do you remember how much they were?