Golden Jubilee
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:06 pm
Over heat
1962 Dodge Dart 330, 392 Hemi, T56 6 speed manual.
1986 GMC K1500 Jimmy, 396 V8, 700R4, 208C, 4x4.
IHC in the early to mid-fifties.
Golden Jubilee
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:06 pm
Yard Art
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Jun 07, 2013 4:51 pm
Golden Jubilee
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:06 pm
iroc409 wrote:It's probably fine, but I'd figure out what's causing it to overheat. Synthetic oil probably won't buy you much protection in overheat, other than not cooking the oil. Synthetic is probably not very cost-effective in these older engines either, as you still probably need to change the oil out pretty regularly--and the cost savings/protection gains come from longer drain intervals. Also, newer oils don't have the protection for the solid non-roller lifters, so I'd probably just run a good dino oil possibly with some zinc added.
The big problem with overheating engines is usually with aluminum heads, as they will easily warp. The large, cast iron heads of these trucks aren't super prone to warping, and if it was not for a long duration you haven't likely hurt anything. If you start developing a head gasket leak or something, you should notice and that could indicate a problem.
I've overheated plenty of engines without any long-term effects, except the car that got so hot it burned to the ground.
Golden Jubilee
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Location: Canada's left Coast
Golden Jubilee
Posts: 4934
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:47 am
Location: Bothell, Washington
Golden Jubilee
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:06 pm
Golden Jubilee
Posts: 8955
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:45 pm
Location: Canada's left Coast
Golden Jubilee
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:06 pm
nikkinutshop wrote:15-40 is one of the most common of oils. Every highway truck has a belly full of it. NAPA sell it as does Pep Boyz. Walmart Sell 15-40. I had been buying my 15-40 at KENWORTH TRUCKS. They have it in litres, four litre jugs and 20 litre pails and I have seen it in the showroom in 205 litre barrels. Where I worked, we had 15-40 delivered in bulk and at any one time there was 15,000 litres of it on tap. There was 10,000 litres of coolant, 1000 litres of SCHAEFER SYNTHETIC gear oil 200 litres of pressurised grease and DEXTRON III was available from a 2000 litre storage tank. It all was available to the mechanic at each work station from overhead recoiled hoses.
Do not take the detergent oil designation that you will see on the can as containing soap that will loosen up all of the deposited dirt and make a problem for you. The detergent designation has something to do with particulate suspension and should not be something for you to worry about at this point. For what it is worth, please change the silly filter from time to time. Even though the by-pass filter is sort of mediocre at best, it does what little it does rather well, within the design.
Something that is not well known and certainly not fully understood because it is not what some persons like to hear, a full flow oil filter does not filter all of the oil that is sent it's way. A common oil pump that is in many engines could easily split any spin-on filter if it were not for the over-pressure valve that many pumps have internally. There is a by-pass valve in many oil filters that responds to over-pressure and will pass the oil around the filter medium rather than risk blowing up the canister housing. A very dirty filter will increase the by-pass function. I always buy the best oil filter that I can get and in my case, I always use the CUMMINS FLEETGAURD series. Even my shop compressor has a very large FLEETGAURD air filter and the INGERSOL T30-242 barks like an angry dog and makes 19.7 cfm at 175 psi.
Your OLD Binder is not your Grandmother and it will not bake oatmeal cookies for you if you give it synthetic oil to make it feel better. If your truck has suffered any indignities over its service life, synthetic oil will not fix the situation and it could make your engines problems, is it has any, much worse if the oil is not designed for the job.
This forum has ARCHIVES that are full of so much really important information and I am thinking that much of it is being ignored. Maybe the ARCHIVES are not obvious enough and get passed over. It just seems redundant and rather silly to have to tell the story of how a carburetor works and why the distributor should not be bolted down tight over and over because no one took the chance and took a "good-look". I am not saying that this is the case here, but it has happened.
Enjoy your truck. Don't be afraid to PM me.
Golden Jubilee
Posts: 8955
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:45 pm
Location: Canada's left Coast
Golden Jubilee
Posts: 455
Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:06 pm
nikkinutshop wrote:No problem if you let it sit for a year, After all, how long did it sit before you rescued it? When you take the oil pan off, please check the flange where the bolts go.. It is not uncommon to see the flange with some distortion from being over tightened the mating surface will have high and low areas from where the bolts have been over tightened. Your pan may not have this problem, but you should check. Another good piece of advice is to glue the gasket to the pan flange with part number 1050026 or the exact same product from LOCTITE IS 30517. These are a tacky product that will hold the pan gasket in place while you try to position it . Another really good idea is to make guide studs that are about 2 inches long. The guide studs are made from the same diameter and thread count, with the heads cut off. The GS are screwed into the block and they help to guide the pan into place while keeping the pan steady. Put a few of the pan bolts into place then remove the guide studs, and keep them for another time.
Nothing confusing, take it one step at a time and you will get it done and have that good feeling and a nice truck to drive, after.
If you are not familiar with torque values for tightening fasteners, this might be a good time to pick p a simple torque wrench for values up to 30 foot pounds and later get another with values up to 150 foot pounds. The pan bolts should not be taken past 15- 15 foot pounds and tighten them around the pan in three passes, say, 5'#, then 10'# and finally 15'#. You may want to go back and check the final value after about ten drives. I like to check Craigslist for a good deal, but be careful. What I often use is the number of fingers torque method. On a 3/8" drive ratchet, I use one finger up to 5'# and two up to 10'#, and three fingers up to 15'#, and so on.
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