56 s130?

Is this an s series? any idea what motor were in these? The man wants $400 for it and seriously thinking about picking it up.

It surely appears to be S series sheet metal . Engine size should be listed on the drivers door spec panel although after this many years it could have been up dated to a different IH six. Price sounds reasonable enough even for a parts truck.

I see parts on there that would bring back some of that investment easily. Does he have the hood? As stated, worth the price, even for a parts truck. As long as you have a place to put/store it, I would spend the money. Your money, your decision.

yes it has the hood, everything is there less the air cleaner. it last ran bout 15+ years ago according to the PO. I would like to drive it tho it does have lotsa cancer. I think the hardest part fixing will be the bottom cab corners look pretty rotten.

In the past, some have said that the "chevy" cab corners could be made to work with some reworking. Do not quote me on that. Have also talked to a fellow who would use old fenders to cut patch panels out of for cab corners. This is what he told me, I did not see finished product.

If the air cleaner is missing and it hasn't run in a number of years, I would check out the engine and see if it turns. There is every possibility that water got in and it's stuck.

Clicked on the photo and looked at a larger version...the fact that the truck has 5-lug wheels instead of 6-lugs makes it either an S-150 or a light GVW S-160.

Engine choices would've been either the BD-240 or the BD-264, depending on the year of the truck. But the 150 and larger would NOT have left the factory with the 220.

Oil filter help please, Got my grubby lil hands on the truck today. but its missing the oil filter and housing, does anyone know right off the bat if i can put a remote oilfiler "screwin type" on this or is it a non bypass type engine. its a 56 s150 i found out for sure now.

Picture of motor where filter should go would be nice.

It hurts me to say this because it is not MADE IN USA or CANADA, but, HF and Princess Auto, in Canada, sell an air hammer mounted in a "C" frame called a planishing hammer. I picked on up off Craigslist for $50 and it hurts me to admit that it works real well. There is a plastic plug on the back of the frame and this is where the frame should be loaded with sand. I used spent sand from our sand-blast-cabinet for fill. It is necessary to top-it-up after a time because the sand settles. If the frame is kept full, it works better because of the increase in mass and it is so much quieter in use.
OK, sheetmetal forming was my first trade, so I might have a little advantage here, but this thingee is really easy to use. Wear ear protection and start to work the metal in the centre of the patch. Do not make the patch any larger than is necessary because you will making extra time consuming work for yourself. It is not necessary to use anything thicker than 18 gauge because the thicker steel gets to more difficult to work. Some persons like to start pounding out the shape with a round face hammer and a sand bag and then make the curve smooth with the planishing hammer. I have done it both ways and both worked very well. Time: About an hour for both sides and the cost of material is less then $20. Check the fit often by putting it against the panel that the part will replace. Do not cut out the rusted area until just before the new piece goes on. YouTube is your friend, now, There are lots of good videos on the how-to-weld-it part. If you are not comfortable with welding, there are some really good epoxies available for the auto repair industry that are as strong as any weld on light gauge metal.
I built a set for a local guy's L and it took about an hour of my time. Sometimes the metal will work easier if it is heated with a propane torch now and then, I never went to red from the heat, and for Goodness Sake, do not cool the metal in any liquid, it will become hard as, well, very hard. A slow cool at ambient temperature is best.
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/cata ... _14637.jpg
http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/p ... 5/p767.jpg
I have a selection of Eastwood hammers and this sandbag and they work really well. A pair of tough leather gloves make the job easier to hang onto and possibly safer.