New Toy 54 R100-update

I had not been able to do a lot of work or investigating on my new toy, as I've been in and out of the VA and dealing with some life concerns. I'm back at it and will try and post progress as it happens. In between all the activity, I'm done some small stuff. Here's a shot of the 54 with new hinge door mirrors installed.

Looking around some more, I discovered it does not have points anymore.

I did receive this while in the VA.

I'll try and investigate this resistor block and see what I can see to make the swap or farm the work out.

Is this truck 12v or 6v?

From his old thread, it has been "partially converted" to 12 volt. Hense the 12-6 converter. Not sure what has been done or how it was wired.

From his old thread, it has been "partially converted" to 12 volt. Hense the 12-6 converter. Not sure what has been done or how it was wired.

What I have found so far is: It does have a 12v battery, with thick cables on both terminals (maybe 8 gauge), a single wire alternator, pertronix ignition, resistor block and an electric fuel pump. I had notice the headlights appeared dim when I drove it at night. The dash might have been also, but I don't remember, but will recheck them shortly. I have not chased wires yet.
I also have to checkout the manual fuel pump and see what's going on there.

If the battery is 12 volts then you have to assume it has been converted. Many things that are 6 volts need to have the voltage stepped down. On the manual fuel pump just be aware even buying a new one they are junk. Unless you were in a rush be better to rebuild what you have. https://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/ make nice rebuild kits that are safe running newer fuels if you choose to do that.

I'm still investigating it as I move along. I believe the headlights are not bright as I think they should be.

All of the gauges work, except the temp, it'd pegged in the hot position.

Even the tach is working.

Like I said earlier, I'll be chasing wires for a little bit. The low dash lights might either be wrong kind of bulbs or just not enough of them.

I'll post as I go along and fix or replace as possible.

that tach is cool

From his old thread, it has been "partially converted" to 12 volt. Hense the 12-6 converter. Not sure what has been done or how it was wired.

I am beginning to look at the wiring on the truck, but I realized I don’t have a guideline or instructions on what to look for or how wiring is supposed to be for this truck that has been converted from 6v to 12v.

I’ve seen a few threads that mention about the conversion not being done correctly, but there’s nothing that shows, what’s correctly. No complete list of items that need to be addressed, watched out for or how to do the conversion.

I’ve seen threads on the pros and cons of changing out bulbs and a little on the gauges, but nothing I being a novice of this conversion can sink my teeth into.

If this is supposed to be trail and error, I’ll leave it as is for the time being.

If someone has discovered how to or has done a conversion to 12v correctly and completely, I really would appreciate a copy of how it’s done in detail please.

There isn't a step by step process, and a lot depends on the approach taken.
Basically you need to asses everything connected to the electrical system, decide to replace it with 12 volt components, or separate it out and feed it 6 volts. You also have to decide if you want to keep it positive ground.
Do you replace the 6 volt generator with a 12 volt generator or do you use an alternator? If you use an alternator you will likely have to remove the ammeter from the circuit (if equipped) as many are limited to 30 amps, where most alternators are twice that.
What to you do about wipers if electric?
what about heater fans? radio? gauges?
There are many ways to answer those questions, and many ways to get results.
When many talk of "conversions" they replace the bulbs, may be the ign coil and **** the rest! That is how most were done, address the easy things and avoid thinking about the hard.
The F$%^ the rest is where you go from something reliable to something less reliable, which was the whole reason for the 12 volt change in the beginning.
With solid state voltage converters you can separate out the stuff not easily replaced with 12 volt and supply it 6 volts, but that requires that you change the wiring from factory, so you have two harness, one 12 and one 6.
All in all, I find it easier to put it back to factory (also looks cooler, being stock) and keep it as it was. It works and doesn't require new or different wiring. Only problem comes if you want to tow a trailer with LED's or swap a trailer between a 6 volt and 12 volt tow vehicle.
Again, no one size fits all answer to the problem. no step by step directions as each case is different

There isn't a step by step process, and a lot depends on the approach taken.
Basically you need to asses everything connected to the electrical system, decide to replace it with 12 volt components, or separate it out and feed it 6 volts. You also have to decide if you want to keep it positive ground.
Do you replace the 6 volt generator with a 12 volt generator or do you use an alternator? If you use an alternator you will likely have to remove the ammeter from the circuit (if equipped) as many are limited to 30 amps, where most alternators are twice that.
What to you do about wipers if electric?
what about heater fans? radio? gauges?
There are many ways to answer those questions, and many ways to get results.
When many talk of "conversions" they replace the bulbs, may be the ign coil and **** the rest! That is how most were done, address the easy things and avoid thinking about the hard.
The F$%^ the rest is where you go from something reliable to something less reliable, which was the whole reason for the 12 volt change in the beginning.
With solid state voltage converters you can separate out the stuff not easily replaced with 12 volt and supply it 6 volts, but that requires that you change the wiring from factory, so you have two harness, one 12 and one 6.
All in all, I find it easier to put it back to factory (also looks cooler, being stock) and keep it as it was. It works and doesn't require new or different wiring. Only problem comes if you want to tow a trailer with LED's or swap a trailer between a 6 volt and 12 volt tow vehicle.
Again, no one size fits all answer to the problem. no step by step directions as each case is different

CB, thanks for your input on this.
I bought this 54 R100, with the conversion started. It has a 12v battery negative ground, single wire alternator, electric fuel pump, pertronix ignition, and resistor block. I will leave it as it came. Partly because I do not have any of the hardware to return it to 6v positive ground.

My 55R100 is 6v positive ground, with generator, voltage regulator and bulbs, and I will leave it in tact.

I have not looked at the heater, wipers, the ammeter gauge, coil, or the bulbs, and I will be adding a small radio. I will for sure tackle the easy things, until I hit that wall.