Help converting to 12v


IHC in the early to mid-fifties.

Freshly Restored
Freshly Restored

Posts: 211

Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 7:15 am

Post Sun Oct 10, 2021 11:50 am

Help converting to 12v

I've spent a chunk of $ and time trying to keep the 6v but I've decided to convert to 12v. With the engine still hot it tends to give me issues and I need to be confident it's going to start. Mostly I feel I can't just stop at a gas station, fill up, and it's going to start. I fill with jugs at home. So here's what I'm aware of and what I could use some help with.

I don't have the heating in tact and working so I'm not worried about the blower.

I know I need the following:
*condesor
*coil
*ignition ballast resistor
*bulbs
*alternator
*battery

Parts I'm unsure of. Do I need to get these?
*turn signal switch - I really don't want to replace my original switch. Do I have to?
*voltage reducer for gauges - I don't use any of the original gauges. I have separate mechanical gauges. BUT, I have all the original gauges wired. I need to have the original gauges wired to complete electrical circuits, correct? If that's the case, I assume I should install the voltage reducer to protect original gauges even though I don't currently use them?

Any parts that are not completely straight forward for the parts store can you please direct me to a part number? For example, I know the ballast resistor is specific. I'm not knowledgeable enough and my parts store (NOT a big "box store") gets flustered when I ask them for things that don't pop up in their computer.

Am I missing anything?
User avatar

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 530

Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:55 am

Post Sun Oct 10, 2021 12:36 pm

Re: Help converting to 12v

If you aren't using any of the stock gauges you can bypass them by connecting the wires on both sides of the ammeter and have no power to any of them. If you still want to use the ammeter, just disconnect the power to the other three. The ammeter doesn't care whether it's reading 6 volt or 12, but if you swap to 12 volt, presumably you'll be going from positive ground to negative, so would need to swap the wires to the opposite posts on the ammeter, as well as the coil + and -. The starter will turn the same direction either way, and the 6 volt start will work with 12 volts if you don't crank forever, but a 12v solenoid would be a good idea. Assuming you're going from a generator to an alternator, you'll have some wiring to deal with, especially if it's an internal regulated alternator like a 10si. I'd suggest considering switching from the points and condenser to a Pertronix ignitor. No ballast resistor. The turn signal switch will work with 12 volt, just change all bulbs, including dome light and instrument cluster.

Freshly Restored
Freshly Restored

Posts: 211

Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 7:15 am

Post Sat Oct 16, 2021 10:34 am

Re: Help converting to 12v

Got it. Thanks for the info PaulH. Doesn’t seem like too hateful of a job.
User avatar

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 530

Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:55 am

Post Sun Oct 17, 2021 6:20 am

Re: Help converting to 12v

Forgot to mention - you will need to replace the 6v flasher unit with a 12 volt one, and the heater preferably change to a 12 volt motor. A voltage reducer for that might work.

Freshly Restored
Freshly Restored

Posts: 211

Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 7:15 am

Post Sat Jul 30, 2022 4:18 pm

Re: Help converting to 12v

Can I get some clarification here? To bypass all my gauges you say to connect ammeter wires. The ammeter has the 3 wires on one side and a single wire on the other. Do I simply disconnect all from gauge and connect all 4 wires together to bypass all the original gauges?
User avatar

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 530

Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:55 am

Post Sat Jul 30, 2022 6:00 pm

Re: Help converting to 12v

Do you know where each of the three wires from the ammeter goes? Assuming original wiring, there should be a wire from the ignition switch to the oil pressure gauge. That's the power for the gauges (except ammeter), connected by an L-shaped strap to fuel and temp. If you disconnect that wire, you shouldn't need a CVR or voltage reducer for those three gauges, as they won't have power. If you want to continue to use the ammeter, but not the other three gauges, you could just disconnect that wire. If you want to bypass them all, including the ammeter, disconnect the feed from the ignition switch to the three gauges, and join the main feed from one post of the ammeter to all wires on the other side of the ammeter.

Return to L, R and S

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests

cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
Designed by ST Software for PTF.