OldIHC

In need of confirmation of my suspicion. I have had the rearend apart on my 50 L110. Some bad stuff happened to this axle at some point. The thrust block was in 2 pieces , one half was in place on the driver side, the other lying in the bottom of the housing. Remarkably no damage was done to the geartrain. I obtained a new thrust block from generous fella on this forum. Already back together, on to new bearings and races, ready to assemble the thing.
Backing up a bit when I disassembled, the axles/hubs I found the axle had been assembled incorrectly, apparently. The passenger side axle had drifted inward and the hub rubbed the brake spreader bar. I figured this was all due to the broken thrust block. I noticed the pass side bore had no counterbore. So test fitted the race by itself, and it easily bottomed out in the housing. Measuring with a inside mic shows 3-4 thou clearence, which suggests the bearing had spun ? What are some of your thoughts on this . Is it done, I have another axle, but haven't had it apart yet to see if it is good. Trying to keep it original. Sorry, for the long post, Tia for the advice.

If there is wear in the housing, there are way to repair (spray welding, industrial epoxy) but the best and cheapest is if you have another good housing. Drop your center section into the new housing and build back up. It will not matter what the gears look like in the donor housing as the housing is all you are going to use.

That is the way I'll go, does anyone know how much interference or press is needed for the race if I were to repair it ? I'm thinking .001".

A general rule of thumb for press fits is 0.001" for every 1" of diameter. If your race is 2-1/2" on the O.D. then 0.0025" would be your interference fit.

Good to know, easy to remember. Thanks

While Bessy may have the machinist rule of thumb, in this case it only needs to be tight enough to hold the outer race from spinning under load. While not easily done in this case, I have seen successful bearing retention by "knurling" the bore with a series of hits from a center punch all around the bore. As I said it only has to be tight enough to prevent spinning under load. A bit of liquid "stud and bearing mount" "lock tite" added to complete the assembly. One of those, "not as good as new, but better than it was" "tools" to keep in your brains toolbox.

A good suggestion, thanks