OldIHC

Im going to attempt to rebuild my motor since i cant get it to turn over. Looking to see if anyone can validate some of the part numbers for the engine. Looking for bottom end bearing kit
Head Bolts
Clutch
Cam

Cam Lifters-IH3566

Before you order a bunch of parts, you will need to measure everything for the right size of replacement parts. The block should be checked for damage. If you do not do this in the correct order, you could end up with a bunch of parts that cannot be used.

You are entering a build that could possibly cost you well over $5000, if done correctly. A short-cut will ultimately fail and all of your lime and cash will have been wasted.
BTW, the IHC parts catalogue call your lifters, tappets. The IH number is 75 524 B3. In many cases, the tappets can be resurfaced. If the cam lobes are worn to fit the original tappets, the new or reconditioned tappets will be destroyed is a short time.

I had my clutch disc and pressure plate rebuilt by HR Clutch in Bensalem PA. I recommend. Was reasonably priced too.

Here is Irish Mikes site , should have what you need
https://app.box.com/shared/otkihx6yoa

INFO this is what pistons cost one of the guys above

Rusty Driver

Posts: 184

Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 7:15 am

Post Thu Jan 30, 2020 5:13 pm
SD220 060 Pistons
If you've read my rod bearing thread you will see I'm now out of pistons that I was told were available. Nobody can find any. I was just told I can get 6 pistons casted special order just for me for $975. Yikes. Ultimately, that's only $165 more than sleeves and using old pistons. If nobody can find these pistons new for me I might just bite the bullet, drink heavy and hit the "buy" button. It's only money right?

Yep, DO NOT pre-buy parts for a obsolete engine. Dis assemble and see what you need, then see what is available. If the bottom end clearances are good, why waste time and money looking for bearing shells. Same with tappets and cam. If something is worn or damaged then put you money into making it right.
You may be surprised how much is re useable. You are not building an engine to turn 6000 rpm, but one that turns 3000 max.
I have an engine that uses a drip oiler for the piston and grease for the rod and main bearings. You don't need the tolerances of a race engine to move a truck.
There is no sense cutting the crank .020 when all you can find is .040 bearings, same for pistons. If the crank really needs cutting, and even if it will "clean up" at .020, but all you can find is .040 then cut the crank to .040!
Having said that, it may not need bearings at all. All you might need to do is free it up, and pop the pistons out (to make sure the rings aren't seized in the grooves) and re assemble. It is highly unlikey you are going to put another 100,000 miles on the engine, and if you did, there is a reasonable chance it you make it just fine. Oil is far better today than when the engine was made, and we tolerate an out of tune engine far less today than people did back then.
This advice is from someone who got 380,000 miles out of a '65 six cyl engine. original crank, pistons and bores.

Try this link
http://www.hansenwebdesign.com/truck/facts_manuals.html