Rebuilt Engine won't turn over


IHC in the early to mid-fifties.

Freshly Restored
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Post Mon Jul 06, 2020 2:14 pm

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

Yes I put oil in it.

I put a torque wrench on and it’s reading 95 with plugs out.

I talked to the builder and he said since both the front and rear has rope seal that it was going to be snug for a while until it had some run time. He was very positive that is it and nothing else would be tight. It wasn’t tight when I first brought it home. He builds racing engines and is very well known so I will trust his judgement. Any thoughts on the rope seals get snug?
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Mon Jul 06, 2020 5:13 pm

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

I don't think there's a rope seal on the front of an SD220. A felt seal in the timing gear cover, but that wouldn't get tight.
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Jul 07, 2020 1:02 pm

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

PaulH wrote:I don't think there's a rope seal on the front of an SD220. A felt seal in the timing gear cover, but that wouldn't get tight.



^^^correct^^^ rope is on back only
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Jul 07, 2020 1:41 pm

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

It got hot?? What does that mean? How hot is hot? Do you have any numbers?
I am suspicious of the engine builder being a "backyard buddy " The builder did not know about the front seal versus a rope seal.
Top off the coolant? What does that mean? Was it low enough so it could be seen in the upper radiator tank?
Joe Gibb racing oil. Why? Good for Joe, he is getting your money. Possibly spending more money on lubricant will not buy extra performance. Racing oil has properties compatible with racing speed conditions, it may not be the best choice for an old IHC clunker.
There are too many unknowns contributing to the situation.
I would suggest that your engine has a big problem that needs correction before the engine is run for any distance and time.

Someone mentioned "zinc". I know that zinc has an important place in an engine. I know what that is, does anyone else know?
Any 15/40 oil rated for Cummins engines will have everything this engine needs.
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Jul 07, 2020 2:32 pm

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

I use start up oil because it was recomended by the builder , and the racing oil because of the zinc ,also recomended by the builder , its good for the solid lifters and the metal to metal wearing surfaces , camshaft , bearings . I had the rotating assembly balanced when the motor was re-built . I think that the zinc was taken out of oil's as it was creating problems in the catalitic converters . Right it is expensive but for me ,I like having it in there . The builder is a very reputable machinist , when I returned to the shop with the motor in the truck to show him they all came ambling out , like I'd somehow opened up a crypt from the 50's .

Golden Jubilee
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Post Tue Jul 07, 2020 4:42 pm

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

you are doing the right thing by taking the engine back to the builder. I hope that you can find a solution to this problem.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Wed Jul 08, 2020 9:36 am

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

What parts were used to build this engine? Here's why I ask: It sounds like one we saw a few years back on this forum.

Turns out that engine was built with pistons for a tilt-valve 220 but a head for a straight-valve 220. Turned over fine with the plugs out, ran hot when it did run...

Turned out the combination of parts resulted in something like 13:1 compression.

HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSION TEST? If not, now MIGHT be a good time to do that.

I'm surprised that CB89 or nikki didn't remember that one from a few years ago.
Last edited by Buzzman72 on Wed Jul 08, 2020 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Wed Jul 08, 2020 9:41 am

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

On load testing the battery: The 6V starter has to do the same amount of work as the 12V starter. Think watts. Volts x amps + watts. So if it takes 130 amps at 12V to crank an engine over [just plugging in numbers here, not a real-world example], the same work will require 260 amps at 6V.

Just something to keep in mind; might or might not relate to your problem.
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Wed Jul 08, 2020 10:15 am

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

Buzzman72 wrote:What parts were used to build this engine? Here's why I ask: It sounds like one we saw a few years back on this forum.

Turns out that engine was built with pistons for a tilt-valve 220 but a head for a straight-valve 220. Turned over fine with the plugs out, ran hot when it did run...

Turned out the combination of parts resulted in something like 13:1 compression.

HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSION TEST? If not, now MIGHT be a good time to do that.

I'm surprised that CB89 or nikki didn't remember that one from a few years ago.



Just put in high test and head for the drag strip!

Sorry I couldn't resist.
56 S120 4x4,

Golden Jubilee
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Post Thu Jul 09, 2020 6:36 pm

Re: Rebuilt Engine won't turn over

Binder Mike wrote:
Just put in high test and head for the drag strip!

Sorry I couldn't resist.

Nah, just run it on LP or Natural Gas!
Buz, as I'm sure you know as well, at this point in time in my life, if I cram something new into my brain, something old goes to "archive" and it takes longer to call up!
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