New Brake Lines

So this 1955 R112 had not run in 20 years and sat on the same road. For years I had wanted to stop on never did. Finally I did and negotiated the price at $800 but I told the guy I would only buy it if I could get it to run and the engine was good. Anyway that did finally happen and starting to get it road worthy. I am down to brakes, exhaust gasket and muffler.

I am wanting to replace the the brake lines. I have an old mechanical double flaring tool but I will need to get a die for it. Any advice on using one of these old tools if I take my time or would it be better to get one of the more fancy lever/press type tools? Also is the new copper/nickel tubing the way to go? Also I have never made my own brake lines before. Do these international trucks use 3/16" line or 1/4"?



Thanks
Mike

5/16" from the master cylinder to the 4-way fitting at the left front frame rail. 1/4" from that fitting to the right front, and 1/4" from that fitting back to the rear brakes.

If you can swing it, one of the newer flaring tools would be easier and better to work with. There's a recent Metro post that discusses that. The nickel/copper tubing looks like the way to go.

This picture is out of the MT221A IH parts book. The picture shows exactly what I found on all 14, but one, of the IHC pickups I have owned.
There is a two way banjo fitting ( numbers 8-9-10-11) at the master cylinder. One side, of the banjo fitting goes to the back brake line and the other side of the banjo goes to the front tube/line. The left side had a three-way fitting that accommodated the flexible brake hose to the left wheel and the brake line/tube continued on from this fitting to the right side brake flexible hose. Only one "R" pickup had the brake tube go to the front center of the frame and into a double flare brass "T" fitting. This where the brake tube split left and right for the front brakes.
Pascal's law states that the pressure of a gas or liquid exerts force equally in all directions against the walls of its container. The inside of the sealed and connected brake lines and the cylinders are a "container". Knowing this it may not be necessary to center the front "T" fitting, as some persons say.
Many of these trucks used a pressure activated brake light switch at the master-cylinder. I have seen some of the original switches last for many decades. I do not use the pressure switch now. They appear to be made off-shore and every one I tried leaked. I like to use DOT5, silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid will find the slightest imperfection and leak. There are many good mechanical brake switches on the market.
If any person is installing DOT5 or any other brake fluid, is important to not agitate the fluid, by shaking it, before pouring it, carefully, into the brake reservoir. Brake fluids other than silicone will become aeriated and hold the bubble for an hour or more. Silicone brake fluid will retain small bubbles for days and cause the brakes to feel spongy.
DOT5 will not mix with other brake fluids. Not mixing is not a problem. The brake fluid other than the DOT5 will continue to be hygroscopic and add to the inside corrosion problem I ran DOT5 for 20 plus years and 225,000 mile in an "R". Silicone brake fluid need not be flushed and changed every two to three years as the other DOT fluids should. .
When purging the brake lines, be gentle and do not pound the heck out of the brake pedal. It is good practice to put something about 2 inches thick under the pedal, in the cab, to prevent the pedal from going all of the way to the floor and pushing the piston to the end of the master cylinder. This is very much more important on a used system. It is common for the inside of the master cylinder to become corroded where the piston does not normally travel. Pushing the piston seal(cup) over this rough area will destroy it in one pass.

Thanks to both of you for the info. It sounds like i will need two die sizes. Looks like most of the dies for the older units which are included in a new cheap offshore made kit are pretty chinsey so I may go with two of each. The real nice units are $150 to $180 to buy and I think they are offshore made as well. Supposedly the new copper nickel tubing is alot softer so easier to work with than steel or stainless so I was thinking about trying it the old fashioned way and take my time.

Mike

You should be fine. I recently did a complete brake job including lines on a R152. I used copper nickel line. Took a few redo's but turned out good in the end. Try some practice flares first.
Dennis

Wow. You have some plumbing on that truck. How many feet of tubing did you use?

I wonder if there was a difference in plumbing in the Canadian trucks. The 6 L, R and S trucks I've had all have had the same fitting at the master cylinder, but one branch of the "T" going to the left front frame and the other branch having the brake light switch. Then the split for the rear brakes and the right front came at the frame where the hose goes to the left front cylinder. Here's the plumbing from MT-97.

I bought bulk 25' each 5/16" and 1/4" from Amazon and used pretty much all of it. With the Hydrovac it takes extra as you can see.
Here is the tool I used to do the flaring. Tool worked good but operator problem at times.
Dennis

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56150-Comb ... B000HAUYCC

I have two vintage versions of that but no dies. I bought them both at antique stores but did not know that they would do double flarex until i started looking. Eastwood makes a supet cool one that acts like a press and they are $180 i think. i have a few trucks so might be worth it. I am kind of old school though. https://www.eastwood.com/professional-b ... M8QAvD_BwE

Dennis,
Can i ask what you painted your frame with? Also did you spray or brush it?