OldIHC

Rebuilder called with a parts list and only thing I can't find is a full set of 020 rod bearings. He said I can get 030 or 040 if that's all I can find and he will turn the crank more. Does anybody have a set to sell, any line or where I can find these, or anybody I can call? Thanks.

Cut the crank to what ever you can get, it is unlikely you'll ever run the engine long enough to wear the crank to where it needs turning again.

A google search of Federal Mogul 1575 CPA 20 should turn up a set somewhere.

Got a call from Egge. They found a rod bearing that will work but the machine shop has to drill an oil hole in it. Score.

Now the problem is they said the pistons I ordered are not available. I shouldn't have been able to pay for them if they aren't available. Can these engines be sleeved to take my pistons? I guess that's a question for the builder tomorrow.

virtually all engines can be sleeved. The question is what shape are the original pistons? if they are good to go, then you can sleeve back to that size.
When dealing with obsolete engine I like to gather the parts 1st then machine the engine internals to match what you have. A good machine shop should be able to tell how much meat has to be removed to true things up before they start.

A few months ago Egge told me they had the pistons. Either somebody bought them or their inventory was incorrect. The machine shop hasn’t machined anything yet.

It's a shame that Egge dropped the ball with your pistons. If your old ones are in decent shape you should have no problem getting your block sleeved. I do agree with CB this is a measure twice cut once situation but I am sure you've got that figured out after this piston mix up.

nrowles,
Curious why you need pistons? Is it because the block needs bored or something wrong with pistons. Remember, you are not building a high rpm racing engine here. Very expensive to bore and sleeve as you will soon find out.
Dennis

Good point Dennis, most got at it like they are building for a race, but the engine will not see 10,000miles. I took an engine burning a Qt/25miles to a qt/1500 miles by putting new rings on old worn out pistons. The bores were cone shaped (heavy taper) and the ring grooves were sloppy. Ran for many more years. Took the ridge off the top of the bore, and ran a hone through it, new set of rings and back together.

I get what you guys are saying. I started out that way but ultimately determined there was too much slop in the bearings and bores to trust it and wanted a rebuild. I have absolutely no interest in putting a different/modern motor in it. I was ready to spend the $2500 to have a good solid engine. I already have so many new/rebuilt components on this truck I simply just wanted a "new" motor. I'm only 36 and this is a family piece I will hold for the rest of my life so I'd rather be looking for the parts now than 20+ years from now. The shop did say it would cost me about $300 extra to sleeve and use original pistons versus bore with new pistons. Obviously I'd rather get the new ones but they aren't available.