6V to 12V recommended parts needed

I'm considering a 6 to 12V transition on my '51 L110. I grew up with two 6V tractors on the farm and just prefer 12V power. I found the following on the parts list for a BD model, but want to hear from someone if it would also work on the L110 truck I have. I would appreciate insight regarding 12V alternator/starter/solenoid/lighting preferences.

*Part Description: 12 volt starter for BD220 and probably others
*Part Number:Napa 440448
*Source:Napa
*Source Address:
*Source Web Link:
*Phone Number:
*Comments: Re-manufactured Delco 10MT starter does not include solenoid

*Part Description:Solenoid for above
*Part Number:ST124SB
*Source:Napa
*Source Address:
*Source Web Link:
*Phone Number:
*Comments:Does not include bolts to mount on starter

I'm curious and maybe someone will chime in but won't a six volt starter work OK in this instance as the wiring would be over sized for the lesser current of 12 volts?

For the alternator I'd be looking at a one wire GM model.

My 51 had been converted when I bought it. The one advantage I saw with that was being able to hide a modern sound system in the glove box.

Thnx Mike! I've been using a 12V battery (the generator isn't connected) and it does work fine with the starter short term. It occasionally squawks at me but always turns the motor over just fine...just need to charge it after driving it around a while. I've been told that running the 12V system will eventually wear on the starter, probably not real soon since I don't commute with the International.

A six volt starter will last for ever on 12 volts. This is because the amperage draw on 12 volts is half that of 6 volts. The 6 volt starter should give a quicker rotation of the engine and the engagement may not have to be as long as on 6 volts. CB89 will certainly have something to add to this.

6 to 12 conversion you need:
Battery, generator with regulator, or alternator,
change out ALL bulbs, even the tiny ones behind gauges,
coil and condenser, and resister if coil needs one,
volt drop to gauges if keeping stock clusters, volt drop to heater, and wipers if you have the optional electric ones,

starter doesn't need to be changed,

if you are changing from positive ground to negative, you need to put battery in right way,
swap wires at coil and amp meter, re-polarize regulator if you are using one,

pretty basic to do, I've done a few, I used to be really big on doing this,

but now with better 6volt battery, connecting ground directly to starter, and H6006 6 volt halogen bulbs, slow cranking and dim lights are a thing of the past,
my 6 volt KB-1 lights are actually brighter than my 2001 GMC

I'd look at just putting in a better 6 volt battery, improving wiring to starter and H6006 bulbs myself, a lot cheaper and easier,

Bedrock John just reaffirmed my belief that it is not worth it to try to change a 6 volt to 12 volt- what could go wrong? Stickman 207

no real reason to anymore,,,,unless you want to put in a stereo or air conditioning, then might as well do a frame swap and get it over with,

I would use a solid state voltage convertor for the 6 volt stuff (gauges, wipers if electric, May be heater if you can't change to 12 volt motor). Then all other things mentioned before. I leave my 6 volt stuff 6 volt.
As far as starters:
The original starters are series wound field type. With this type of motor the amperage draw is a function of rotation speed. If you turn them slower then the designed speed the current draw is higher (and so is the heat, the killer of all motors). By running a 6 volt starter on 12 volt, it will get up to speed faster and turn a little faster then designed but the current draw will be slightly less then what you would expect by doubling the voltage. What this means is almost no reduction in starter life. If it uses a solenoid to move the drive into the flywheel, that can suffer a little on the higher voltage. If it uses inertia to extend the drive into the flywheel that can be a little harsher, as the motor will accelerate faster on the higher voltage.
Generator, if used needs 12 volt field coils in it. Alternator is used will likely require a smaller pully and shouldn't be a high amp unit as that would likely result in belt slip if you retain the original wide belt.

Something like this will take care of the gauges:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-Voltage-Reducer-Converts-6-Volt-Gauges-to-12-Volt-5-amp-HD-Waterproof/283457496401?hash=item41ff622551:g:nsQAAOSwCHBa2JkD

For your heater blower motor and wipers [if electric]:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-Electric-12-Volt-To-6-Volt-Reducer-Resistor-For-Fans-Motors/131482673544?hash=item1e9cfa6188:g:t24AAOSwlCFdFhir:sc:Other!47161!US!-1

Besides the bulbs, generator/alternator and horn relay, this is about as simple as it can be.

If you break down in East Bumfuzzle, will they have 6V parts at their local AutoZoo? Wanna bet on it? THAT is about the only reason I recommend a 12V conversion. With the proper battery cables, good grounds, and a good charging system, 6V will work as it was intended. But don't expect to use a radio that has FM...those came along after the industry switched to 12V.

I'm really happy with my six volt system. The one thing I'm lacking though at this point is a solar powered battery tender (float charger). Where I keep my truck now I can use my grid powered unit and a lead cord but part of the time my truck will sit in carport that doesn't have electricity. I am finding plenty of 12 volt solar powered float chargers but nothing in 6 volt specifically for automotive use that features the float function.