Progress

This post got very long but it's here for your reading pleasure.

Got my water pump in this past week and put about 35 miles on the truck yesterday (yes in the 100 degree heat). Overall everything seems to be working well. I took it to the shop and had them bend and hang the tailpipe, do a safety check and align the front end. I had this truck loping along at 45 miles per hour no problem. Honestly I can't believe how well it rides. I'm so ready to enjoy this truck the few months we have until winter. Here's the status of a couple things.

Something opened up pretty bad in the rear main seal. There was a 3-4" puddle under the weep hole after bringing it home. Honestly at this point that does not bother me as long as it's ok (such as it won't contaminate clutch or any other components) to let it go and watch oil level. That seems like a pretty good leak but as long as I watch oil level is that ok to let go for now?

The knocking I had is still around but it does not appear to be near as bad. Also, I've noticed once the engine gets up to temp it happens much less. From what I'm reading that leads to piston slap and when the guy from the shop adjusted my valves 2 months ago he said it sounded like piston slap. The knock that I hear is coming from the rear of the engine. I also did compression testing and all were between 87-91 except cylinder 6 was 83. I'm thinking that's where my noise is coming from. This could also be where the smoke is coming from. Possibly a stuck ring letting oil by and making the piston slap or would compression be worse than that with a stuck ring? Also mentioned in one of my other posts is the cylinders might be glazed causing the blow-by.

Apparently I had the wrong amp voltage regulator initially. With your help I bought the correct one and it is charging!

I took my mother for a ride yesterday and she said it was time to clean it up so I took a rag through the interior. Wow was that nasty and it could be gone through again. I even pressure washed the interior the first day I brought it home.

I bought a leak-down tester a few weeks ago (a tool that has been on my hit list for about 5 years) so maybe I will give that a go on this truck.

I guess my main concern at this point is my oil pressure has dropped quite a bit after having driven it. The head was rebuilt and I pulled the oil pan and cleaned everything down there so I can't imagine there was a ton of junk left over but maybe there was and it has the filter or pickup clogged. I'm going to look into that today. Oil did get very black already with even so little run time. Before driving it cold idle was around 30 and hot idle around 7. After driving it those numbers are now 1/2 that. I've read the 7 is ok and normal but 3 has me concerned. Steady driving down the road it was around 20. Oil change a filter will hopefully fix that.

Time to drive and enjoy this truck!!!!!! Took it to a couple buddies houses yesterday and they loved it. One guy about stopped on the road when I was parked in front of my parents. One place I was turning around a guy got his phone out and snapped a picture. This is great.

Sounds like the fun has begun.
Dennis

That's awsome, I can't wait until I'm doing that in mine. I missed year/model you are driving, but I can only imagine the looks and thumbs up. Congrats!

I would not worry about the oil pressure. A dirty by-pass oil filter will not make the oil pressure lower. After the filter, the oil dumps into the sump and does not go into the oil galleries under pressure.
The engine is old and well worn out. After sitting for a long time the rings can get stuck and lose tension. Driving may get the stuck rings to loosen up, but they will never work like new again. It is very likely the engine has worn a taper into the cylinder bores. Installing new rings into this situation may not work without a cylinder bore or honing by a professional with experience and a bore gauge.
Low oil pressure may not be a bad thing if lubrication is reaching everywhere it should. High oil pressure may indicate a blocked oil passage. The oil pump moves the oil, only. Restriction in the system is resistance to flow and that makes pressure.
I am thinking the knocking you hear may be piston slap. While not desirable, it only indicates wear. The slightly lower pressure in #6 supports your diagnostics. Number 6 is often the hotter running temperature over the lifetime of the engine. While not a lot hotter, the wear can be a little higher as indicated by the lower compression.
Go ahead and enjoy your truck. Keep the RPMs down and the engine could last for a decade. I recommend using Chevron 15/40. This is the best oil for the flat tappets your engine will have. This oil will not heal the wear, but it is the best option to slow future deterioration.
15/40 should be the same from any company. Walmart do not make oil. Walmart often have the best price. Walmart oil will be packaged for Walmart by an oil company. 15/40 will be made to a specification that will meet or exceed the requirement of many Diesel engine builders. Do not waste your money on a synthetic oil or a synthetic blend. There are not healing qualities in the more expensive oils. Synthetic oil is not like the chocolate chip cookies from your grandmother, those cookies fix everything.

You have a great looking truck; and, it's really awesome that (after alot of hard work) you can really enjoy it! What's great about these old, charismatic trucks is- that they provide a multi diamensional experience for the owner. You, not only get to drive and enjoy ownership; but, you get to experience the joy that it brings to others, as well. Congratulations!!

Oh- and Nikki- great advice and insight, as usual!

That's awsome, I can't wait until I'm doing that in mine. I missed year/model you are driving, but I can only imagine the looks and thumbs up. Congrats!

1953 R112

I would not worry about the oil pressure. A dirty by-pass oil filter will not make the oil pressure lower. After the filter, the oil dumps into the sump and does not go into the oil galleries under pressure.
The engine is old and well worn out. After sitting for a long time the rings can get stuck and lose tension. Driving may get the stuck rings to loosen up, but they will never work like new again. It is very likely the engine has worn a taper into the cylinder bores. Installing new rings into this situation may not work without a cylinder bore or honing by a professional with experience and a bore gauge.
Low oil pressure may not be a bad thing if lubrication is reaching everywhere it should. High oil pressure may indicate a blocked oil passage. The oil pump moves the oil, only. Restriction in the system is resistance to flow and that makes pressure.
I am thinking the knocking you hear may be piston slap. While not desirable, it only indicates wear. The slightly lower pressure in #6 supports your diagnostics. Number 6 is often the hotter running temperature over the lifetime of the engine. While not a lot hotter, the wear can be a little higher as indicated by the lower compression.
Go ahead and enjoy your truck. Keep the RPMs down and the engine could last for a decade. I recommend using Chevron 15/40. This is the best oil for the flat tappets your engine will have. This oil will not heal the wear, but it is the best option to slow future deterioration.
15/40 should be the same from any company. Walmart do not make oil. Walmart often have the best price. Walmart oil will be packaged for Walmart by an oil company. 15/40 will be made to a specification that will meet or exceed the requirement of many Diesel engine builders. Do not waste your money on a synthetic oil or a synthetic blend. There are not healing qualities in the more expensive oils. Synthetic oil is not like the chocolate chip cookies from your grandmother, those cookies fix everything.

Thanks for all the detail. This makes me feel better.