Tachometer


IHC in the early to mid-fifties.

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Golden Jubilee
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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 9:08 am

Re: Tachometer

lbesq wrote:At this point, it should not need to be heated up, the expansion of running has already occurred, Now is the time to re-torque the head bolts.

My opinion, others may vary


x2.
My posts contain my own opinions...your mileage may vary, void where prohibited, objects in the mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:15 am

Re: Tachometer

Buzzman72 wrote:
lbesq wrote:At this point, it should not need to be heated up, the expansion of running has already occurred, Now is the time to re-torque the head bolts.

My opinion, others may vary


x2.


agreed, however myself,
I'd re-torque my own truck while it was hot, since final adjustment of valves is done hot,


I'd just do both at same time, but yeah, with just a seep leak not compression blowout, you "SHOULD" be fine.

again this is what I'd do myself, not arguing against anyone else's advice :t0201: :yay:
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:31 am

Re: Tachometer

Thanks guys! the valves are already done, they have a little clatter but for the most part are relatively silent
1952 L-112 Long Bed BD220 3 speed, 4x4.
1962 Dodge Dart 330, 392 Hemi, T56 6 speed manual.
1986 GMC K1500 Jimmy, 396 V8, 700R4, 208C, 4x4.

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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 11:18 am

Re: Tachometer

Just keep in mind to re-adjust the valves again, once you have torqued down the head. There should be some noise, quiet operation means they are Too tight, that is not a good thing.
Again, my opinion.
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 12:58 pm

Re: Tachometer

^^^^^^^True Dat^^^^^^^^^ a lot of newbies to these old engines are used to hydraulic lifter motors, and think clatter is bad,

I had a SBChebbie friend who was always trying to mess with my valves, drove him crazy with the valve noise,,he wanted it quiet like the Chebb motors. always offering to adjust em for me, cause he thought he could fix that clatter,

should be a even tick tick tick sound, some old farts used to say like a well oil sewing machine,,,,,,,,,,,whatever that sounds like :roll:
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Golden Jubilee
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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 6:57 pm

Re: Tachometer

is there an easy way to adjust them? besides pushing and pulling in 3rd gear to get on the right stroke
1952 L-112 Long Bed BD220 3 speed, 4x4.
1962 Dodge Dart 330, 392 Hemi, T56 6 speed manual.
1986 GMC K1500 Jimmy, 396 V8, 700R4, 208C, 4x4.

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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:24 pm

Re: Tachometer

Ethan wrote:is there an easy way to adjust them? besides pushing and pulling in 3rd gear to get on the right stroke

Please Down load and read this book or pertinent sections: http://nwaringa.wordpress.com/2009/09/1 ... ce-manual/

part 1 ,section A ,assembly of engine page 25 (open with Adobe viewer)

MY suggestion is you adjust by the book cold, then warm the engine up to operating temperature , Then adjust again.

Lloyd

Golden Jubilee
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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:09 pm

Re: Tachometer

is that going to be the same for the BD engine?
1952 L-112 Long Bed BD220 3 speed, 4x4.
1962 Dodge Dart 330, 392 Hemi, T56 6 speed manual.
1986 GMC K1500 Jimmy, 396 V8, 700R4, 208C, 4x4.

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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 9:05 pm

Re: Tachometer

Yes, Download that manual, it will answer a great many of your questions, and will be a valuable resource for years to come.
That information is in the second part of the engine area. section B page 21

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Post Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:02 pm

Re: Tachometer

Ethan wrote:Thanks guys! the valves are already done, they have a little clatter but for the most part are relatively silent


Ethan, forgive me if I insult your intelligence, but I just want you to make sure you know the difference between a mechanical valve lifter, like your truck has, and a hydraulic lifter, that most modern vehicles have. The mechanical lifter NEEDS to have some gap between the moving parts. If there are no clearance between the parts, all parts of the valve train would expand when they get warm and it would keep your valves open. If you have open valves, you won't have any compression. The "click, click, click" that you hear with a mechanical lifter is the gaps that you have with mechanical lifters. Having mechanical lifters can also be a good thing with engines that run at extremely high RPMs because you don't have a lifter that pumps up and keeps your valve open, like a hydraulic lifter can.
A hydraulic lifter adjusts itself, but technically, it never has a gap. That is why they run quiet. On a brand new engine with hydraulic lifters that has never been run, there are gaps in the valve train and when you start up your engine for the first time, it will sound like an engine with mechanical lifters, at least until the lifters fill up with oil and compensates for the gaps. Ideally, you never have to adjust your hydraulic lifters again. If the clearance between the valve train increases, hopefully your lifters just fill up with oil just a little bit more to compensate for the larger clearances that can happen as your valve train wears. If your valve train clearances decrease, as in the case of when a valve seat wears and the clearances get a little tighter, the lifters bleed down slightly so that there is less oil in your hydraulic lifter.
Once again, I apologize if you already know all this. The little clatter that you hear is a good thing.
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