12 volt

From what I can tell the last owner did a half job of converting it over. When I am done with it it will be all 12 volt. I have new harness and fuse panel. just have to get the body work done first.

When I do my 12V conversion, it will be total; no voltage reducers, no half measures. I have a new rebel wiring harness, with fuse panel, and I will replace every gauge, every motor, every bulb and every switch. When I got my '56 S-120, it had about ten different voltage reducers, and the harness had been hacked and spliced and was all faded tho one uniform color.

John

After running mine on 6v for awhile, this is my plan as well. I want to make mine a nice weather daily driver, and with my 50 mile onje way work commute, a radio and iphone charger are kind of a need in my world, so.... Also, Rebel Wire is a good unit.

If your truck is running fine on 6 volts and current motor, would not this work for Cell phone and I-Pod?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industry-Grade- ... 4ad0ec8b07

I remember having step up converters back in the day when the "NEW" 12 volt radios came out and I was still driving a 6 volt car.

My thoughts, do not fix what is not broken.

Those folks no speakee good Engrish... but their product may be OK.

If your truck is running fine on 6 volts and current motor, would not this work for Cell phone and I-Pod?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industry-Grade- ... 4ad0ec8b07

I remember having step up converters back in the day when the "NEW" 12 volt radios came out and I was still driving a 6 volt car.

My thoughts, do not fix what is not broken.

Well, I never said it ran well, nor does it go anywhere. lol. None of the lights work, turn signals, all of the wiring is cracked and exposed, etc..., and so it needs to be replaced. So I may as well do it all with a 12v wiring kit. My daily drive is 100 miles, and I guess for the sake of modern convenience, switching everything to neg ground, and 12v would be easiest for me. Fuse block, too.
I don't mind 6v at all, it's what I have in my Ford tractor, which still runs at -30F plowing my driveway, but requires a jump each time. The pickup requires a jump each time, too. Despite cleaning the contacts.

PS: For a long time I've been wanting to keep it original at 6v, but I've finally buckled under the pressure.

Havi said: PS: For a long time I've been wanting to keep it original at 6v, but I've finally buckled under the pressure.
I know, I remember. But with what you have described about wiring and such, I think that the upgrade to 12 volt and a 100 mile drive will make you happier. Good luck on the conversion, may it go relatively painless. couldn't help it.

Careful with that 12 volt conversion or your truck may end up looking like mine does right now....bare frame All of my new electrical components including wire have been sitting in two big boxes for the last 3 years.

its funny how one thing leads to another isn't it Kris? lol

john

I've said it before, but I put 900 miles in 3 day in the dead of winter in my stone stock K-7 6 volt. At times the temp dropped to -23f. I'd rather make sure what is done, is done correctly then worry what voltage it is, and hope a higher voltage will make up for poor maintance. Either 6 or 12 will get the job done if done correctly, both can be a headache if half assed.
On my Semi's I have the choice of 12 or 24 volt start for electric (both have been used at some point in big trucks) but prefer air start for all out reliablility. High current DC is hard to keep reliable regardless of voltage. Connections are always a weak link in the system, keep them to a minimum, for best results.