parts for 1950 L180

Scott,
Are you talking about the out line should be on the end where the blue circle is instead of out of the top where the red cicle is?

Thats awsome that you have been doing that with the part #'s. You sound like me, when i worked at PepBoys and they closed In Wichita i bought all there parts books from behind the counter. Go to Rockauto and go to a 1957 CO180 with a 269. There arent many options but brakes is one of them and see what you think about the wheel and master cylinder on that.

Tad,
I know that it has only hydraulic brakes but what threw me off was the air gauge thats on the dash (might I remind you that its not hooked up, LOL, that could have save alot of trouble by just looking ). There is also no compressor either. I dont know much about the hydrovac either and that is my biggest worry, repairing and getting parts fot it. Be wont be this easy>>:t3909: LOL. Yea I know that the axle swap would be pricey especially doing both axles, but you cant tell me it wouldnt be cool to have some modern axles and 10 lug, 22.5" polished aluminum semi wheels under it. My other dream would be to get a modern diesel and put in it. Probably just out of a truck like a cummins or something, no semi truck motor. They both are probably a " Lottery Win " dream LOL. I would think that they would be easier to find parts for too. I dont have the MT-68 manual yet but i plan on buying one this paycheck. Theres one for like $20 on eBay.

nikkinutshop
Wow way to put some ones project down, I thought this site was to be helpful, not tell people to give up on the ole Internationals that this website has been made to support and bring back. There is no reason to give up on this project. It has losts of potential and dont need alot, might I remind you it ran when bought and everything worked but the usuall stuff from sitting in a barn for a while. There is no emotion to it, it was just bought to work. I know exactly what the project is and now that some one has given me the books with the info that I needed I know what I have. The trucks not a Need-All. Repairing and replacing is not rocket science but I need to know what parts I need (part #'s) and where to get the parts to do it safe and it is serious thats why I am on here asking people with more knowledge then me on the subjest about it. My kids will be driving this one day so I want it safe as possible. This day and age with the internet you can find about anything and why spend time looking if I can come to this AMAZING web site with these AMAZING and knowledgeable people and get it quick and easy because some one already has it. I need this for more then just gravel, I have 16 acres to take care of. I dont have lots of money to pay for delevery charges and some one to come out and clean up the property and do all the work for me thats why I bought this truck and my Kubota tractor. Trust me I might still be young to some of you but I have been through alot in my life and know the value of a dollar and how to spend it to get the best bang for the buck. This is the best in the long run and it saves an ole International, always a plus . I have had three years to step back and look at this project and never once have I considered not doing it.

HE SAID; Wow way to put some ones project down, I thought this site was to be helpful,
Maybe I thought that it was the best advice. I like these Old Binders as much as anyone, but there comes a time when a vehicle will have passed it's best before date. Knowing when to say no is maybe as important as knowing when to go ahead. In the end, you will do what ever you want. If you want to take this as a put-down, that is unfortunate, but it is your choice.
Without some basic knowledge about this braking system and some experience, it is very unlikely that a novice will be able to make the repairs. There is this new way of thinking going around with many persons. If I see it on You Tube or some forum, I can do it as well as anyone. There are a few who get lucky and you may be one of them. Under many circumstances, it takes some serious training or an apprenticeship to make a good mechanic with the skills to make it right. A good mechanic should be able to see the bigger picture and recognise if there is a problem beyond. This truck is a collection of systems that have to work together and this is where it might be important to be able to see the bigger picture. I still say it is very important to make a detailed list complete with prices. To this list, make a plan which should include some time and cash for all of the fittings that will be rusted solid and will need teasing with penetrant and or heat.
There seemed to be some confusion about how the brakes are boosted and or activated. This should be the first clue that the project might be too big for the circumstances. I will make no apology for what I know to be true. My only regret is suggesting that there might be a situation that needs looking at before the repair is commenced.
I am moving on now and it is unlikely that I will return to this subject.

I own 2 K-7s with a 269. I can tell you that loaded, they are a 45 mph truck, and may see 55 if empty. Loads of fun but not a powerhouse. Be careful with your fuel pump find, the GRD takes a similer pump, they look the same but the arm is different. One will bolt inplace of the other but will not work correctly.
If the brakes are in good shape, they will have no problem stopping the truck but everything needs to be good. These are "foundation" type brakes and are different then "car brakes" where the shoes "float" inside the drum. There is more then one adjustment, and they must be made correctly and in the correct order.
Most of the stuff is genaric, like points, condensor coil plugs etc, Last time I needed a gasket set they were available, but have heard that they are no longer so, and you might need to go to Olsen gasket for them.
Funny thing, one of my K's had an air pressure gauge too. It was a pre-war '41 and no air pump on the transmission nor any sign of ever haveing one.
Hydorvacs are not that complicated a system but different then any "car" you may have worked on. They require bleeding in the correct order.
Nikki's comment on brake drums should not be taken lightly. Drums on a truck of this size have likely seen hard use. Replacements may or may not be avaiable.
I know 22.5 steel rims are avaiable in the 6 bolt pattern, not sure about aluminum.You need longer inner studs for aluminum wheels anyway, and not sure if longer ones are avaiable. I'm a spoke man myself (althoug one of my K's has the 6 bolt wheels) and I prefer tube types. so would be happy with what your truck came with.

PLEASE SCOTT DONT LEAVE ME!! LOL!! i need some parts numbers and places to get them.

Well you've done pissed me off and Im going to vent, making observations about stuff that you don't know the whole story on and now it's like youve scared everyone away. That is true to know when to say when but on the old stuff you always put more into because of the enjoyment you get out if it. I may be young but I have been working on cars and truck for at least 14-15 years. Yea people learn alot from school and everything but in my eyes the stuff should come natural, aside from specialty stuff. It dont take training to know to do it right, its common since, but unfortunately there are alot of people out there that dont have common since and are lazy and give a rats ass. This stuff comes natural to me and everything i know Ive tought my self by tearing it apart, fixing it and puting it back together. I am very picky on my work and it must be perfect, thats why i do all my work myself and why so many people bring me there stuff and brag about me. I will put forth the extra time and effort to make sure that its done right. I hate working on stuff after someone else and fixing there mess ups, but it is important to do it right!! Trust me I can fix anything that is put in front if me, I am not any where close to a novice by any means and while you might have more experience then me I can do pretty much anything you can. I have rebuilt every part there is to on a vehicle. My reason in this whole thing was to find parts diagrams, parts numbers, where to get the parts, and to identify which one I have. In order to do your planing and make a detailed list with prices and everything i need PART NUMBERS AND PLACES TO GET THEM TO ACQUIRE A PRICE! To be honest, I didn't even really look at the braking system before I got on here. I just got on and started asking questions because that is the best way to find out info, asking a lot of questions gets you the answers you need and more, maybe a helpful tip to make the job easier. Brakes are simple, I just don't have any experience with the hydrovac unit and wanted to know which one I had and an exploded diagram. You dot know anything to be true on here, you cant see the whole picture when you're missing most of it. Do you believe in Magic? You talk about someone before you know them and talk down a project before you know the whole story. I would never try and talk someone out of an old project that they want to fix up, even if they only have body and never tell anyone they are pretty much dumb and don't know what they are talking about, try and help them!. You are a very judgmental person and in no way have helped this topic out, just caused problems and waisted everyone time.

The blue circle is what I was talking about. Is there a line where the red circle is? I'm not exactly sure but,if you look at one of the schematics it notes that connection is for slaved units and if you have only one HV it isn't slaved.

Here's the index page the links are from;
http://www.bepco.biz/Catalogs/vacuums_&_hydraulics.htm

Take note of the bleeding procedure!

Since you don't plan on doing the job soon it would be a good idea to inquire with the Wisconsin Historical Society and see if you can get a copy of the LST. When I looked in the R series book to find the correct page whether front or rear brakes the axle code is needed. Better to have the info at hand then not.

Yea that's fine with me, I am like 4-6 miles from the rock quarry and its all back roads. I won't be in any big hurry when doing it to be safe plus with the old truck I don't ever push them or get in a hurry, take your time and be safe!!

Yea I remember something about that there were two similar fuel pump and that the arms were different and in the description that it said 269 and they went ahead an ordered it in and I took mine in and we matched it in before I purchased it.

Yea I noticed that stuff about the brakes when I looked in the service manual in the link that Scott posted. Yea I figured the hydrovacs aren't that complicated but I'm just worried about getting any parts I need.

My reason for the big wheels was for the axle thing. I figured if I could find a decent price on some newer axles that were easier to find parts for I would put forth the effort to adapt them over. And along with the newer axles would be different wheels and tires and what else looks good then a set of polished aluminum wheels, plus it seems that a lot of the tires I find on Craigslist are the semi sized ( like, 22.5, 24 and what ever other sizes there are) not a lot of 20's. I don't mind the 6 lug bolt pattern I just don't care for the wagon wheel as u call it I guess. Do you know if Deuce and a half wheels are the same bolt pattern size?

Just a quick thought, what about a deuce and a half axle under it? Maybe put them front and rear and make it 4 wheels drive and put a divorced transfer case in it. I'm a 4 wheel drive guy. LOL. That are plentiful plus lots of brake options. The only problem is that the third member comes out the top and I'd have to lift it up high enough to clear and it might be to night for "my" tractor but it would e cool o have a 4 wheel drive LOL.

Scott the blue circle is just a plug like it appears and the line that goes to the brakes is in the red circle.

The best thing you can do about non-helpful people is just ignore them....while I completely agree with your point, I'm afraid it probably fell on deaf ears. There are people who think nobody without extensive training can do anything and there are people who think they can do anything without any training(learning), both are fools if you ask me. You will be fine doing whatever you work on so long as you do your research to understand what you are doing. The thing some people seem to forget is that EVERYONE, including themselves, at one time knew absolutely nothing. They were able to learn how to do whatever it is they know, but don't think YOU can learn, go figure.

When you get some part numbers here are some places to try, I have gotten parts from Parts of the past before...but lost their info....I think this is the right number, the other two I have not dealt with but had saved the information as having international parts. I hope the information is still current and they can either help or point you to someone who can.
PARTS OF THE PAST, INC
LAWRENCE KS
PHONE 913-749-5231

Dick (Pappy) Vance,
573-221-7767, Hannibal, MO.

Fredrickson Bros Inc, 781-659-2400, FAX: 781-659-7666,
MA; email: fredricksonbros@verizon.net

The blue circle is what I was talking about. Is there a line where the red circle is? I'm not exactly sure but,if you look at one of the schematics it notes that connection is for slaved units and if you have only one HV it isn't slaved.

Here's the index page the links are from;
http://www.bepco.biz/Catalogs/vacuums_&_hydraulics.htm

Take note of the bleeding procedure!

Since you don't plan on doing the job soon it would be a good idea to inquire with the Wisconsin Historical Society and see if you can get a copy of the LST. When I looked in the R series book to find the correct page whether front or rear brakes the axle code is needed. Better to have the info at hand then not.

Scott, I looked at the schematics for 3rd series diapham and it showed the outlet like his had it. I think it is correct.

Jungerfrosch,
Yea that is true and am done with it. Now that I see what kind of person he is. I'm moving on, focusing only on the project and giving thanks to everyone on here offering help. Thanks for the parts places, thy one of the reasons I'm on here.

Cornbinder
I agree it looks to be right to me also.

Scott Ill See if I can get you the axle code.

Thanks everyone for there help!

I was pondering the brake line so I looked in the R series book for the H-vac & the hydraulic piping. Found what I was thinking it might be and it is...it uses a banjo fitting and not an inverted flare which is what I thought of when I first saw the pic. So it's as it should be.

If the unit works just clean it up and throw a new coat of paint on. "If it ain't broke,don't fix it". Exchange units are available but not cheap. From what I found the same unit was used on the L,R & S 170-180. I have PN's too.

If you remove it,be sure to use new copper crush washers where required.