OldIHC

Let's see if I can make a bigger mountain outs this mole hill...

Try as I might I can't copy the image from a PDF to paste here,so any that are really interested will have to look in the link.

This is using the MT-118 and is likely what Mike & Ralph have. What isn't illustrated is the cross member. The lower insulator is on the underside of the CM.

See Fig. 12-41 here;
https://app.box.com/shared/otkihx6yoa/1 ... 03038910/1

Just so you know what the other 2 are,Fig. 12-39 is the 900A,B.C w/152 4cyl. and Fig. 12-40 is a chassis # split for the BG/SV8.

The set-up in Fig. 12-41 is the same used in Loadstar's and almost identical to the mounting for a number of other engines,like the MV & LV 8's using different insulators.
Something very alike to Buzzman's idea was used in Loadstar's with the 6V53 Detroit.
If anyone wants to look,here's the MT-132...
https://app.box.com/shared/otkihx6yoa/2/26421826
The PDF catalog is the one to use,plus it can be saved to your 'puter.

Btw Mike, the OEM insulators can still be had,no need to fab them.

I found this company long ago,they list quite a number of insulators for IH and other makes.They show the ones used in Fig.12-41 plus the other ones I mentioned used in the Lstars, (879627R93,286235C2,286236C2) with the dimensions.
http://www.dycoparts.com/

For fabricating square/rectangular insulators I'd consider the trailer spring end pads you'll see listed. They must be better than a hockey puck or scraps of old tires,those are absurd.
Pretty easy to cut with a sabre saw or even better a band saw with the right blade. I've used a sabre saw on rubber with a 16TPI blade with good results. Drilling holes can be a real PITA but if you're going 1/2" a hole saw would be my choice. For smaller holes what I've done is drilled in steps to get close to the desired size and then heated a piece of round stock to "finish" the hole. (Best done outside!) I got pretty nice holes that way.

this is a Front mount for an SD220, The top one is the one he was wanting number 2 in illustration the IH part number is 72 085 R92 . The bottom ones are easy, any piece of cushioning material that does not totally crush will work, NO more than 1/4 inch in thickness should be sufficient.

Apparently there were two style mounts on the BD sixes. My B110 pickup has a fairly compact rubber sandwich style mount under the front of the BD 264. My S 160 with the BD 240 engine has a more elaborate style much like the one shown for the SD 220 with a contact point up under the water pump. I have photos of them all but only one uploaded to an album that I can share. Here is the "hockey puck" mount under the front of the BD264 in my R160. It is crude but seems to be working.

Front mount R160 2 by R.Goff, on Flickr

Yes, that top one is the one I was talking about. The bolts do not line up going through the top mount. I still think it would make more sense to make that top mount solid and make the bottom two the one's with the cushion using something like Buzzman linked earlier. http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/cushion-set/ Thinking that is what I am going to attempt and see how it works. I just think I will always have problems with that top mount, has to be better than when I got it, top mount was bolted all the way through solid and no rubber on the bottom two mounts.

If I find my two Y mounts, I should have a good top "insulator" on at least 1 of them. When I find, I will contact you. The three that I have pulled all had that top "insulator" and bottom "insulators" on them. Was not so concerned with keeping up with the bottom ones, as I said before most any 1/4+ piece should work there.

While I've owned plenty of these motors in my stable and never had one with a bad upper mount, (maybe I should buy into the Lottery)

it's obvious that some are prone to failure at some point, IHC did start using the "saddle" type mount on the BD. & BG? motors, although I've had those with Y mount too.

some sort of mysterious application reasoning between them or the all to often: "after part No." you see all over their part catalogs.

since the Y mount is also insulated at the frame, going rigid connection at top to me seems a viable option,

either inserting a block of some type to keep same aspect ratio, or increase size of lower mount, looks like Ford Flathead 8 front lowers would work perfect for this.

anyone compelled to argue against a rigid connection at motor, should possibly look at the saddle mount in the parts book first and see that it is rigidly connected to the block.


*just remembered, when I swapped a SD motor into my KB-1 after going thru 3 GRD motors I had a metal fabricator custom make me a Y mount to go from front mount on the SD to the frame of the KB. it was rigid mounted at the motor and insulated at the frame,

I drove the truck like that daily for probably 15 yrs. before selling it and never had an issue, your mileage may vary