Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:48 pm by nikkinutshop
Here another bit of light engineering that will give someone's brain just a little work-out.
When I converted to electric wipers I took this as a good time to change the wiper's patterns to something that did a better job of covering the windscreen. I drove both wipers off the same motor crank shaft which made both wipers travel from left to right at the same time. The Bell-crank on the left wiper was left the same, but I moved the right wiper drive mounting point up the bell crank just a little, toward the shaft that goes through the cowl. The right wiper is now driven farther in it's arc. This will take some experimenting to get the travel correct. This is not a big deal, really, but it is one of those little thingees that make the truck better. With both wipers following each other to the left and right, and the wipe pattern is nicely overlapped in the centre. Because the right wiper is forced to travel farther it now covers the far right side of the windscreen more completely. This little bit of engineering has another benefit and this is, never again will the wiper blades come in contact and jam when they cross over in the middle. The jam and resulting stall was not big deal with the vacuum motor, but the jam could cause some damage to an electric drive, if not fixed immediately. Do yourself a big favor and pay attention to the wiper timing whether or not you do this modification. Turning the wiper switch off is not an instant fix because the wiper drive will still try and return the wipers to park and the jam may prevent this from happening.
This may not be necessary, I used HEIM joints and aluminum rods which were threaded to connect the HEIM joints. This replaced the original connecting rods and worked really well.
Don't worry, 99% of the persons who look at your Binder will never notice and the 1% who do will really appreciate the change.
Another thing to be careful with is the splines on the wiper drive shaft that goes into the wiper arm. The splines on the shaft and in the arm assembly should be cleaned with care. If there is corrosion, dirt or paint in the splines, either in the wiper or the drive, the fit will be poor and the splines could be stripped. A sharp pointed awl does a good job of cleaning the splines. A little drop of oil on the pivot from time to time is a good idea. As good as WD40 is at many things, it is not a lubricant for this application, but WD40 will help to clean the shaft and bushing surfaces and make the area better able to accept oil.
Do not over tighten. If a person does not have a torque wrench, I often suggest that one finger for 1/4", two fingers for 3/8" and more fingers for 1/2". It is probably not necessary to have 13 torque tools like what has collected in my toolbox, but, unlike the "old daze" a fairly good torque tool can be had for a reasonable price. It is much more important for a novice to have and use the torque tools as part of getting a feel for what is tight enough.
I'll bet the CB89 and B72 have and use torque wrenches and these guys are experienced. Now that I am retired, I use torque tools more often . Even when I was working, 100% of everything was expected to be torqued tight and noted. The torque tools had to be calibrated regularly, which was not all that bad, because the company had "In House test machinery".
After using the torque tool, return the adjustment back to 0.
edited once.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
Artificial intelligence is no match for real stupidity....
and i myself am going with the Newport system because my vacuum pump is shot, i do need the tab and knobs for my new heater though.
