steering box

I have read that to adjust a manual box with a lot of miles, it's better to adjust at the end of the steering travel. The theory is that the knobs on the steering shaft ride in the center of the worm gear most of the time because straight is how the vehicle moves most of the time. If the box is adjusted so it's tight to the worn spot, when the wheel is turned to the far end of its travel where wear is less, it can bind up REALLY tight, and prevent the operator from being able to steer.


John

The worm gear may have more wear in the middle, but the grooves are cut a LOT wider on the ends. This is so the steering can be adjusted tighter in the middle without binding up on the ends. According to the service manual:

"Do not adjust in the end positions. Play in end position is not objectionable. Tighten side cover adjusting screw until a very light drag is felt through the mid position high range when turning the wheel slowly from extreme to extreme position. Steering gear must not bind in any position. Only a very slight drag should be felt. A closer adjustment will not correct steering looseness caused by wear in other steering gear members."

How is the power steering conversion going John? Do you have it all figgered? What kind of setup is it?

I finally got around to checking out my steering box. There was only a small amount of oil in the housing.
Everything looks good. I cleaned it out and add some gear oil over all the parts. With it sitting level I added a good amount to the lower cavity. When tilted in working position it should have the lower half of the
worm gear in oil. I made a new cover gasket using the cover for a pattern. I didn't replace any seals so we'll see if it leaks once it is in operation on the truck. Not leaking propped up in the basement right now.

Gear oil I used.

Pic of front and rear bearings in bearing cup.

How is the power steering conversion going John? Do you have it all figgered? What kind of setup is it?[/quote]

If all goes as planned (which it probably won't lol) I will use the Toyota steering box I got from KB48 (Robert), and a Saginaw style pump. I will convert to a crossover steering setup, with a new tire rod from Napa.

The guy who rebuilt my Ross box recommended Lucas Hub Oil for the steering box.

John

Make sure to post up a lot of pics and how you did it. As much as I admire the simplicity of the Ross box, finding parts was a booger. If it goes south, I would definitely consider a PS conversion.

L112- your box looks to be in very good shape. It also looks like a J33p box. Walcks 4x4 has lots of parts for that model. I will look at the shop manual when I get a chance and see how much oil you're supposed to put in it. Seems to me there should be more.

OhioBoy,

It is a Ross model TA-12 according to the MT-63 manual.
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1759 ... g_Gear.pdf

Be nice to know what they recommend for the amount of oil. Some length below fill port. My guess the pins that engage the steering shaft
should be lubed so oil lever should be just covering those pins when tires are strait forward position.

This is what was in Owner's manual after looking at it online. Seems excessive to fill to top of filler port.

All Units:
Remove the filler plugs and inspect the lubricant level every 1000 miles, keep filled to the filler plug level.
Drain down to the filler plug level if the lubricant is above the filler plug opening, Drain and flush twice each year or
every 10,000 miles, preferably in the spring and fall, Keep the breather fittings clean.Use SCL, EP gear oil or multi-purpose
gear lubricant suitable for hypoid axles supplied by a reputable refinery; SAE-90 cold climate; SAE-140 warm climate.

UNIT REFILL CAPACITIES

ENGINE OIL : 7 Quarts
With Oil Filter Change : 8 Quarts

TRANSMISSION: 3 Pints

REAR AXLE DIFFERENTIAL: 4 Pints
COOLING SYSTEM: 19 Quarts

FUEL TANK: 15 Gallons
CARBURETOR CLEANER : 1 Pint

The shop manual says:

"Check lubricant level each vehicle lubrication period. Keep filled to plug level with gear lubricant. Use SAE 90 in cold climates and SAE 140 in warm climates"

It also says the capacity of the TA-12 is "1 pound" so I guess 16 ounces?

It may seem excessive, but the box will probably leak some between lubes (the Lucas Hub Oil that John mentioned is supposed to help with that) and there are ball bearings at the top of the box that might get dry if you only fill to above the pins at center. Sloshing oil would help with that, I suppose, but manual says to plug, so......

And after all, it's only gear oil. Use a little more and save the headache of a rebuild in the future. Or worse, a steering gear failure on the road!

The shop manual says:

"Check lubricant level each vehicle lubrication period. Keep filled to plug level with gear lubricant. Use SAE 90 in cold climates and SAE 140 in warm climates"

I wonder if that is mineral oil, or EP gear lube? I've been told that the pressure additive in gear lube is hard on bronze items in gear boxes...I'll bet the manual means mineral oil.

John