12 volt

The KS guages used by Ford Chry and IHC until at least the late 70's are 12 volt (if the "whole system" is used, guage head, pulse "regulator" and sender) and the old guage faces can be installed in place of the modern ones, giveing you an origanl look while still being able to source parts. Just don't play mix and match between the older KS gauges and the newer ones.
I have stated my opinion on the 6 vs 12 volt argument and will not add to it here.
Generators have some advantages over alternators, and visa versa.
As long as the battery is connected it will dampen any voltage spike. Nothing puts a bigger spike then an ign coil, and we have been useing them for years with all kinds of electronics without failure.
Disconnecting a battery from a running vehicle will cause damage, how much depends on a lot of factors, it can vary from almost nothing to complete failure.
Alternators are cheap and provide more current both at idle and speed, but generators can start chargeing from nothing and can put out their rated current at 100% duty cycle as opposed to most alternators which are closer to 30% duty (100 amp alt should only be called on for 33 amps continuous) for long life.

High temperature wire is definitely used by Painless, American Autowire and Ron Francis.

You got me curious so I looked up the type of insulation used. Some of the info was a bit confusing (at least to me ) but here's what I could decipher- someone can correct me if I'm wrong:

XLPE wiring insulation is "cross linked polyurethane" and what gives certain types of insulation their hi temp properties. One site listed XLPE as rated 90 to105 degrees C. According to another site, TXL and SXL both use an XLPE component. But both are rated to 125 degrees C, so go figure. SXL is thicker than TXL and thus mechanically tougher and also a little more expensive. Also heavier and less flexible. Both TXL and SXL are SAE recommended for underhood applications.

RebelWire uses the SXL wiring.
Painless uses TXL wiring.
American Autowire uses an unspecified XLPE wiring.
Ron Francis uses an unspecified "Hi Temp" insulated wiring, and also has a conduit available that is rated to 300 degrees and I suppose that could be added to any wiring.

Since all of these are major manufacturers and don't want to be setting any cars on fire, it's probably a safe bet to say that they all use some type of SAE approved wiring.

Here's some more info:
http://www.kayjayco.com/tech125CWire.htm

Once the smoke is out of the wires, you can't put it back in. just like a fart, once it is out........ it's over and you cannot put it back in ever again. .(from MAGIHC)

So if it is a true 6 volt system here are my questions:

Will the 12 volt light I bought work on that system?

Will I be able to add a radio, and cell phone plug or do I need to upgrade to 12 volt?

Thanks

So if it is a true 6 volt system here are my questions:

Will the 12 volt light I bought work on that system?If the contacts on the light fit the socket, yes the light will light, it will NOT be very bright, Most definitely not bright enough to drive by. Much as a badly grounded bulb in either 6 or 12 volt will be very dim.

Will I be able to add a radio, and cell phone plug or do I need to upgrade to 12 volt? On a 6 volt positive ground system, to run a more modern 12volt negative ground radio and a power point that also is negative ground, you will need a 6 volt positive ground to 12 volt negative ground converter. This is one that I found on the net, I in no way endorse this company and think the price is high, but I am old and a penny pincher. http://www.powerstream.com/dc6-12.htm Here is one that is much cheaper and looks more like what I used back in the day. We only needed one for a "new" radio : http://www.classicindustries.com/truck/ ... 1210p.html Lloyd

Thanks

You have to check the details closely. According to the description, the cheaper one will only convert negative ground to negative ground.

Dean

Dean, this is from the description of the item in the second link:
10 AMP 6 T0 12 VOLT CONVERTER - POSITIVE GROUND

Now you can operate a 12 volt radio in your classic 1947-53 six volt truck with this high current 10 amp model.

Will operate 12 volt negative ground accessories from 6, 8 or 12 volt positive ground electrical systems. When used in a 6 volt positive ground system, it can continuously supply more than 2.1 amps with the engine off, and about 2.5 amps with the engine running at a fast idle.


I have a unit that is more than 20 years old that does the same thing, sitting on a shelf in my Garage, Much bigger than this one, but still goes from positive ground to hooking up a negative ground 12 volt radio. Used it in my 54 Desoto to power a newer radio. Not sure if either my old unit or the new one in the second link would power a Radio and a Power point connector for a cell phone at the same time. That would be a question for the folks who sell them. Now, for the Money, the First link is Quite the unit, Think it might possibly supply power to motorized items?

Lloyd,
I stand corrected. I misread the discription the first time. It looks like either unit would power a 12V radio.

Dean

This is what I used in my 48 KB-2 back in the late 70's, it is made by Johnson Radios. It converted 6 to 24 volt positive or negative ground to 12 volt negative ground, all by how the jumpers were attached. I don't know the specs on it anymore as I can't find the paper work on it.
Bi

What is needed to switch it to a 12v system? Or is it better to keep it 6v, and if so will my new tail and head light still work with it?

Is there any drawbacks of a 6v system?

Your gauges worked just fine because they need no voltage reducer or resister added to the circuitry. The ONLY thing you need to do is to install a 12V generator(or alternator if you'd prefer) and regulator. If your current wiring harness is good, don't change it. It is heavier duty than it needs to be with a 12V system...which is good. You do not even need to change the 6V starter. It will work just fine on the 12V system.

When I converted my '56 S120 to 12V the only thing I changed, besides light bulbs, was the heater motor. It was old and I though there was a problem because it seemed excessively hot when running. Turns out the 12V motor ran just as hot. Even ran the original tube radio on 12 volts. The windshield wiper motor worked just fine for the 200,000 miles I put on the vehicle.

A 6V system draws more amperage to run all the electrical than does a 12V system. All the wires are lower gauge (larger diameter) and a loose or slightly corroded connection will stop you sooner with 6 V than with 12V.

If you decide to run 6V then yes, you'll need to change the bulbs. The 12V bulbs, particularly the headlights, will be too dim.

All kinds of suggestions about voltage converters. The instruments in the 50s Binders are of a design that balances resistance with the senders and and the gauges. They work the same with 6 or 12V. If you check the ohm resistance on the fuel tank sender, you are checking its resistance not the voltage it sees. Your ohm meter reads resistance, and it is using only a 1.5 to 3 volts to get its reading.

I've said it before, and here it is again. Ohm's law states that doubleing the voltage will double the current in a circiut (with no other changes to the componants). There is no amount of wishfull thinking( or ingonance on how things work) that will change this. All meters, including volt meters (with the possable execption of Vacuum tube volt meters, which are very expensive test instruments) measure current. Doubleing the voltage will double the current thru the device. This isn't ancidotal evidance, this is fact. Do what you want, but be informed before risking old stuff that isn't made anymore or readly avaiable.