1954 R110 Restomod


IHC in the early to mid-fifties.

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Post Thu Aug 04, 2016 11:54 am

1954 R110 Restomod

After sitting for far too long, I've finally started progressing on my project truck; a 1954 R110. This crew seems to be an incredibly useful source of info, so I'll pester all of you with questions. (Hence why this is here and not the build thread area)

Just a little bit of history first. My dad drove a 52 L110 in high school, and had to sell it later in life. On a family vacation we spotted it on the farm of the people he sold it to, and he bought it back. He and I then started working on it together. I wanted to get it drive-able for my 16th birthday, but a frozen engine put a stop to that. Instead, my dad surprised me with a 1954 R110 out of Kansas. It used to work for Foster Farms there, and you can still kind of see where that was painted above the windshield. I loved it. Unfortunately a rod got thrown through the block just before I went to college, and the truck sat. After college, my dad and I put in a short block with my head and accessories to get it mobile. While it ran, the compression was so poor that it could hardly make it up a driveway. Then it got parked. Now I'm a "big kid" and have a garage, and no longer have to live on a grad student salary, so I get to dig into this truck I've spent nearly half my life with.

I'm going for a resto-mod on this truck. Before you start wailing and gnashing your teeth, hear me out. Between my dad and I, we now own many original 100% stock trucks, both in amazing and poor condition, so I'm not shorting myself a perfect vintage vehicle. Plus the truck wasn't "numbers matching" so to say, since it had a replacement engine. Another factor is that I want my children to be able to drive it and enjoy it , and those brakes, steering, and minimal oomph can be a little intimidating. So I'm modernizing it in a few places, and keeping original where I can.

The engine I'm going with for updating it is the Jeep 4.0 straight six. Okay, clearly the truck won't magically run 10's, but I like the idea of sticking with a straight six, just with fuel injection and all that fun stuff. Plus the 4.0 is cheap, hearty, and there is plenty of aftermarket support for anything Jeep related. Also IHC put AMC engines in some later pickups, so it sort of fits thematically, if you hold your mouth right. The 4.0 is mated to a 2WD AX15 five speed trans, and I have a Ford 8.8 waiting to replace the rear end. This puts disc brakes in the back, and I'll go with a TSM kit up front. The 4.0/AX15 is much smaller than the SD220 / 4 speed, so fitment is mostly not a problem.

So far there aren't any deal-breaking problems with this swap; just a lot of small questions that need to get sorted. So here goes!

1) Fuel: My tank is salvageable, but rusty inside. A few radiator shops around me say they can boil it and line it, but I'm tempted to try myself with a combo of shaking with chain inside, Evapo-Rust, electrolysis, and Red-Kote. Does anyone have any experience with this? Or should I just have the pros do it? I'll need to install a high pressure fuel pump to feed the EFI engine, so I'm guessing I need to drill that hole before applying the sealant coat, correct? Also I've seen some threads talking about replacement sending units. If I can't get one specifically for the R110, which Ford unit is interchangeable? I've seen mixed results on this board. What is the correct resistance for full / empty? My rusted to pieces (and sunk float) unit just shows 75 or so ohms and open circuit. I don't think that's correct.

2) Ford 8.8 mounting: As I asked in another thread, where can you find spring perches for these small 1.75" leaf springs that will fit the large 3.25" Ford housing? Is the best bet to get 1.75"x3.0 and grind away excess (thanks to one response in Buzzman's thread, by the way)? And then just do weld-on shock mounts, or is there something better out there? I'm keeping ride height the same, so it will still be spring over mounting. I looked through the parts thread a bit, but couldn't easily find a set of bushings for the leaf springs. Anyone have good part numbers?

3) Power Steering: Everyone on here seems to go with "the Saginaw box," but which one? And I'm guessing everyone mounts on the outside of the frame rails? I no longer have the diagonal braces due to engine clearance, so there's a good chance I can go with something in the original spot, if there's enough vertical space inside the C-channel. This https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cp50006c/overview/ steering box is the correct orientation / mounting if I can fit it in between the top and bottom of the C-channel. I want to keep my original steering column at least to the firewall, and then run u-joints to the steering box. How does one support the outer steering column housing independently from the inner column in a clean way? There seems to be a spring inside the outer column that pushes it down compared to the wheel, and I don't want that fighting the u-joints the whole time. Again, I looked through the parts thread and didn't see anything, but is there a consensus on drag link and tie-rod part numbers that get away from the ball-in-socket method?

4) Pedal assembly: Since I'm going to power brakes and a hydraulic clutch, there's not much point in keeping the original pedal assembly. Not to mention the original trans / bellhousing is now gone, so there's no place for the pivot end to bolt. Replacing the brake setup won't be too bad. There are good bolt-in solutions like this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Brake-Pedal-7-Inch-Power-Booster-1-Inch-Master-Cylinder-Unit,74286.html which has a booster small enough it will probably fit. Or if it's too big, I'll run a hydroboost system. The clutch is where I'm running into trouble. I can't seem to find an under-floor pedal that mounts on the OUTSIDE of the frame rail rather than the inside. There are twin-pedal systems like this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-600-6570-56-Under-Floor-Power-Brake-Hydraulic-Clutch-Assembly,46286.html, but if I mounted that on the inside of the frame, I don't think it would fit through the existing hole in the cab, and then the driver's feet would be swung WAY over to the right. Does anyone know of a clutch pedal like I might need? Worst case, I guess I buy a similar mount to the brake one and cut / reweld it to the side I need? I could always cut that twin pedal system down the middle and run it through the frame, and then re-assemble together, kind of like what IH did in the first place, I guess.

Okay, that's a ton of information and a ton of questions. Apologies for the wall of text, but thanks in advance!
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Rusty Driver
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Post Thu Aug 04, 2016 12:52 pm

Re: 1954 R110 Restomod

Hi Doc, and welcome to the site! You won't get any grief here about modifying your truck, a lot of folks do, myself included.

I can chime in on your fuel tank issue. I have repaired several tanks using POR15 tank sealer. It's a 3 step process - clean, etch, seal. If the tank is really bad I usually put about a cup of pea gravel into the tank and rattle it around to get the loose rust off. This stuff will actually seal small holes, and bigger ones aren't too difficult to fix. I have a harley tank done about 10 years ago, still good. Also just finished my Jaguar fuel cells. The quart size was plenty for two small tanks (8 & 9 gal).

Good luck with your project, looks like you have a good plan!
This is my last old truck, unless I find another one.

1935 International C35
1939 Dodge TC
1940 Ford Tonner
1969 Ford F250 4X4
2000 Chevrolet 1500
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Post Thu Aug 04, 2016 1:06 pm

Re: 1954 R110 Restomod

mkebaird wrote:I can chime in on your fuel tank issue. I have repaired several tanks using POR15 tank sealer. It's a 3 step process - clean, etch, seal. If the tank is really bad I usually put about a cup of pea gravel into the tank and rattle it around to get the loose rust off. This stuff will actually seal small holes, and bigger ones aren't too difficult to fix.


Awesome info, thanks! I'm guessing the sealing part of the POR15 is the very last step, after I've done all my cutting and welding on the tank? Do you have the drain plug out for the sealing process so that it doesn't get stuck in?

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Post Thu Aug 04, 2016 11:17 pm

Re: 1954 R110 Restomod

Welcome!

You're probably over thinking the spring mount..... probably just grab a grinder and have a go, you'll need: time, patience, a few grinding discs and a few beers (after).
Alternatively, grab some RHS box section of a suitable size, a decent hole saw and cut away. If you have access to a mill it's even easier.
Alternatively you can hit up a local engineering firm and get them made up, it's pretty simple stuff when you have the machinery to do it.

POR15 is the last step after modifying the tank. Use dummy fittings/blanks to be removed later, otherwise your drain hole/sender/everything will be blocked with POR15.
Consider running a surge tank instead of modifying your tank. Fit a low pressure pump to feed from the original tank to the surge tank. Fit an external high pressure pump from the surge to the EFI system via a pressure regulator. Fit a return line that feeds from the fuel rail pressure regulator back to the surge tank. Fit a return line from the very top of the surge tank back to the original tank for if it overfills. Easy.
If you buy a surge tank with all the fittings you need, no welding is required and as an added bonus you won't experience fuel surge during cornering. That's how I'm planning to do run the 5L windsor in mr AR112.

Go the first brake pedal option (single pedal) and add individual pedals for the gas and clutch. It's probably the only way you'll get aftermarket pedals to straddle the chassis rail. Think of them individually rather than an assembly and go from there.

I'm no help on power steering, sorry.

Now that's done I think you owe a picture or two!
Maybe start a build off post to put progress pics in and keep opportunities (problems) here.

Cheers,
Mike.

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Post Wed Aug 17, 2016 1:36 pm

Re: 1954 R110 Restomod

I just finished an 8.8 rear end swap last springing a L-112. I used one from a 2000 Mustang GT. They are 3inches wider than the Explorer with disc brakes and a 3.27 gear ratio. This rear end came as a 28 spline and the axle housing was 2 7/8" instead of 3.25". I replaced the axles and carrier with 31 spline. I was able to use my original drive shaft with a new u-joint. I will have to find the part number when I get home.

For shock mounts I used the original location, but built new leaf spring plates with the shock mounts and added spacers to the cross member where the tops are mounted.

I used leaf spring bushings Harris-854.
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Post Wed Aug 31, 2016 2:05 pm

Re: 1954 R110 Restomod

Thanks for all the comments, everyone! Progress has been slow, but that's the case with project cars, and certainly so with an infant and a toddler in the house.

Recent activities have been designing the frame boxing plates, as well as designing the engine mounts. The 4.0 fits nicely, except that the engine mounts need to sit in the awkward spot on the frame where it goes from the nice c-channel to bending down and slimming on the top of the rail and expanding on the bottom. Nothing too hairy, though. I'm going to reuse the crossmember that formerly supported the back of the engine and trans as the new trans support.

Since I'm boxing the frame to support the new engine mounts, I'm sleeving the shock mount to be a thru-hole through the frame. Other options are to weld a nut on the inside of the frame or just hope for the best in regards to access, and I don't like those options.

I've also been cutting out the rivets that held in parts no longer needed, which is not exactly the most fun thing. So many rivets.

As a side note, I now need to cut the new plates for frame boxing and engine mounts. I've always figured I would use an angle grinder and cut-off wheel, but I'm starting to think that won't give me the precision I want, and it just spooks me a little bit making such huge cuts with a death wheel. Pondering a cheap-ish plasma cutter. Anyone have any suggestions? I don't have a compressor at the moment, nor do I have 220 V in the garage, so I could either do a 120 V with internal compressor (like the Hobart 12ci unit), or buy a cheap / used compressor and do a cheap cutter like the Lotos that still gets good reviews. Any input?

Pictures are minimal, but here's the 4.0 in the engine bay on one of the trial fits. The position you see not only gives plenty of room for the radiator (and I'll go with electric fan), but it actually keeps the shifter in the original spot in the cab, which is pretty neat.

IMG_4342.JPG


IMG_4343.JPG

Golden Jubilee
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Post Wed Aug 31, 2016 3:05 pm

Re: 1954 R110 Restomod

A small but very important point.
The fuel return line should enter the fuel tank and go nearly to the bottom of the tank. There is a problem with the returning fuel combining with the air in the tank and producing an acid. The acid will destroy the tank.
Google this for more information.
Have fun with your truck.
I would rather have tools I do not need than to need tools I do not have
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Post Wed Aug 31, 2016 10:32 pm

Re: 1954 R110 Restomod

Mate,

Mock up your chassis boxing plates with cardboard or thin ply, take the cut outs to a laser cutter or water jet cutter and the jobs 1/2 done. It won't cost you too much more than buying the steel yourself and the real bonus is the dead straight lines that the laser/water jet can produce. I will guarantee the plasma cuts will be a pain to weld in and will look rough.
-also don't forget to scallop the ends of the boxing plate, you need to transition from stiff (boxed) to flexy (unboxed) smoothly. I made a post on this a while back with some pics if you do a search.

I actually think your mounts are in a good spot, consider using the bolts holding the shock mount onto the chassis as a mounting point, IIRC there's another pair of holes forward of this mount. That's how I did it with a 5L windsor. Bolting retains the original strength of the rail and makes the mount removable and no welding on the chassis required. I didn't box the chassis though, don't really need to with the thicker steel in the 112 chassis

just my 2c.

btw, the 4.0L looks really good in there!

Cheers,
Mike.
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Post Thu Sep 01, 2016 11:20 am

Re: 1954 R110 Restomod

Great minds must think alike. While test fitting the engine, I did a little cardboard-aided-design and then transferred those to CAD so I have digital files for the boxing plates and the mount pieces. I've had trouble finding a local place that will cut them for me, since it's a small job. One option is this website called emachineshop.com, which gives you their proprietary software to draw your parts, and they cut and ship. This comes out to a few hundred bucks for what I need. Not too bad, but when that's getting to be half the price of a plasma cutter...

I am a rookie at plasma though. Why do you say it will be tough to weld and look bad? I thought you could get fairly straight cuts using a guide?

I'd scalloped the edges of the frame boxing in my drawings thanks to some ancient article from Hot Rod or something. I'm glad to hear it isn't just an old wive's tale!

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Post Thu Sep 01, 2016 10:39 pm

Re: 1954 R110 Restomod

With a guide it should be fine, i've freehanded in the past with the aid of wheels on the cutter to help with depth control. Using a guide should get you pretty close after a little practice.
I'm a novice with one and my cuts need a little cleaning up afterwards to get straight lines........ sometimes more than a little :)

I just know how perfectly straight the laser/water cutting can be. (if you think ahead you can have any bolt holes pre cut as well). Also remember that you need to factor in the price of the steel, which whilst it shouldn't be expensive is sometimes difficult to buy less than a full sheet.

...... all of that said you have a perfectly good excuse to buy an air compressor and inverter welder that will also do plasma cutting (MMA/TIG/CUT) ...... So yeah, i'd probably buy them as well!


Yeah, not a wives tale. Its actually law here for truck chassis repairs. Whilst it isn't strictly necessary, it's not hard to do and it's simply a better way to do it.

Mate, would love a few pics of your truck if you've got them!
You can check mine out "'54 AR112" here: viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5705
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