Weatherstripping Question

Hey everyone, new to the forum. I am resto-modding a 1954 R100. Been a long time coming 2.5 years, but almost done. Had a question: I am trying to order a weather stripping kit from the following company (http://stores.restorationspecialties.co ... ubber-kit/) how do I know if I need belt weatherstrips with staples or clips? Mine have already been removed so I don't have anything to compare. THANKS, Joshua

I'll get come pictures up later. Looks like I need to resize them.

R100 after new paint and bodywork

With those doors, I'm pretty sure you want the belt weatherstrip without the chrome (with staples), but you can double check by looking at the bottom of the garnish molding to see if it has a row of staple holes. They're a PITA to attach. I think the chrome edge ones were used on the late R and S series with the pushbutton door handles.

With those doors, I'm pretty sure you want the belt weatherstrip without the chrome (with staples), but you can double check by looking at the bottom of the garnish molding to see if it has a row of staple holes. They're a PITA to attach. I think the chrome edge ones were used on the late R and S series with the pushbutton door handles.

Thank you very much. I don't remember seeing garnish molding on the doors. I know I have two for the back windows. But I'll check tomorrow.

Do these images help at all??? Thanks again, look forward to being on the forum!

That's the belt weatherstrip that's attached to the stainless trim and sits between the window and the door edge. It doesn't have the stainless bead. Unfortunately, you have to take that stainless trim molding off to replace the belt weatherstrip. The inside one attaches to the garnish molding, which then screws in like a frame on the inside. If that makes sense.

If you go to Irish Mike's Library at: https://app.box.com/shared/otkihx6yoa
Then look for Nick Narwingas MT63 catalog and go to Group 16 Cab Cowls and Bodies part 3, you will find the weather stripping on page 4 of the PDF document. My 52 had the chrome bead, the 50 did not, but the 50 still had a painted metal bead that pry's up off of the door flange. The cats whiskers were stapled on to it. The ones I received the staple holes did not match so I used a drimmel tool with a wire size drill bit to re-drill the staple holes. MM

I have had great success with using flat head machine screws in a 4-40. I CAREFULLY Drilled and tapped one from each of the original staple holes then installed and tightened each Flathead machine screw just enough to get it down into the fuzzy enough to clear the glass. I used socket drive machine screws for better control. A very small touch of NICKLE NEVER SIEZE Will keep the screw from jamming.
This was easy. Be gentle.

Thanks everyone, amazing assistance. Staple belt it is.... I like the machine screw idea!

Have a good one!

More to come.

I'm at the same stage with my '52 L112'. The idea of using those machine screws is really appreciated. My doors have been completely gutted and painted and now the challenge of putting it back together. Am in need of those clips to hold the rubber channel moulding on the top part of the door where the window rolls up into it. Any ideas on who handles those.

I am very sure that I saws these clips on AUVECO http://www.auveco.com
These guys have been in business for almost a century. I would be surprised if AUVECO was not the original supplier to IHC. Did you know that a FORD owned company built the window regulators for IH? The same gear pitch was in the MODEL "T" FORD and the Fox Body Mustangs. I used FORD power window motors adapted to IHC window regulators and to get the package to operate properly, I used a modular wiring harness from a FOX-BODY Mustang. The Mustang harness was the correct length and the rest was plug and play, including the window switches. The most difficult part was making the switches look like they belonged, well sort of.