Top motor mount for S Series


IHC in the early to mid-fifties.

User avatar

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 2048

Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2013 8:49 pm

Post Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:19 pm

Re: Top motor mount for S Series

Let's see if I can make a bigger mountain outs this mole hill...

Try as I might I can't copy the image from a PDF to paste here,so any that are really interested will have to look in the link.

This is using the MT-118 and is likely what Mike & Ralph have. What isn't illustrated is the cross member. The lower insulator is on the underside of the CM.

See Fig. 12-41 here;
https://app.box.com/shared/otkihx6yoa/1 ... 03038910/1

Just so you know what the other 2 are,Fig. 12-39 is the 900A,B.C w/152 4cyl. and Fig. 12-40 is a chassis # split for the BG/SV8.

The set-up in Fig. 12-41 is the same used in Loadstar's and almost identical to the mounting for a number of other engines,like the MV & LV 8's using different insulators.
Something very alike to Buzzman's idea was used in Loadstar's with the 6V53 Detroit.
If anyone wants to look,here's the MT-132...
https://app.box.com/shared/otkihx6yoa/2/26421826
The PDF catalog is the one to use,plus it can be saved to your 'puter.

Btw Mike, the OEM insulators can still be had,no need to fab them.

I found this company long ago,they list quite a number of insulators for IH and other makes.They show the ones used in Fig.12-41 plus the other ones I mentioned used in the Lstars, (879627R93,286235C2,286236C2) with the dimensions.
http://www.dycoparts.com/

For fabricating square/rectangular insulators I'd consider the trailer spring end pads you'll see listed. They must be better than a hockey puck or scraps of old tires,those are absurd.
Pretty easy to cut with a sabre saw or even better a band saw with the right blade. I've used a sabre saw on rubber with a 16TPI blade with good results. Drilling holes can be a real PITA but if you're going 1/2" a hole saw would be my choice. For smaller holes what I've done is drilled in steps to get close to the desired size and then heated a piece of round stock to "finish" the hole. (Best done outside!) I got pretty nice holes that way.
12 yrs.exp. in IH dealer parts dept.
Never argue with a fool...
If you don't have anything nice to say...say nothing.
If you don't learn something new everyday...you weren't paying attention.
THINK! Be sure brain is connected before mouth is in gear.

Site Admin
Site Admin

Posts: 4938

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:10 am

Location: Nampa, Idaho

Post Mon Mar 17, 2014 12:02 am

Re: Top motor mount for S Series

this is a Front mount for an SD220, The top one is the one he was wanting number 2 in illustration the IH part number is 72 085 R92
SD220frontmount.jpg
. The bottom ones are easy, any piece of cushioning material that does not totally crush will work, NO more than 1/4 inch in thickness should be sufficient.
User avatar

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 965

Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:06 pm

Location: Saskatchewan

Post Mon Mar 17, 2014 1:04 am

Re: Top motor mount for S Series

Scottso wrote:Let's see if I can make a bigger mountain outs this mole hill...



This is using the MT-118 and is likely what Mike & Ralph have. What isn't illustrated is the cross member. The lower insulator is on the underside of the CM.

See Fig. 12-41 here;
https://app.box.com/shared/otkihx6yoa/1 ... 03038910/1


.

Apparently there were two style mounts on the BD sixes. My B110 pickup has a fairly compact rubber sandwich style mount under the front of the BD 264. My S 160 with the BD 240 engine has a more elaborate style much like the one shown for the SD 220 with a contact point up under the water pump. I have photos of them all but only one uploaded to an album that I can share. Here is the "hockey puck" mount under the front of the BD264 in my R160. It is crude but seems to be working.
Image
Front mount R160 2 by R.Goff, on Flickr

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 609

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:55 am

Location: Cassville, Wisconsin

Post Mon Mar 17, 2014 1:06 am

Re: Top motor mount for S Series

Yes, that top one is the one I was talking about. The bolts do not line up going through the top mount. I still think it would make more sense to make that top mount solid and make the bottom two the one's with the cushion using something like Buzzman linked earlier. http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/cushion-set/ Thinking that is what I am going to attempt and see how it works. I just think I will always have problems with that top mount, has to be better than when I got it, top mount was bolted all the way through solid and no rubber on the bottom two mounts.
1956 S-102 Short Bed BD240

Site Admin
Site Admin

Posts: 4938

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:10 am

Location: Nampa, Idaho

Post Mon Mar 17, 2014 1:39 am

Re: Top motor mount for S Series

If I find my two Y mounts, I should have a good top "insulator" on at least 1 of them. When I find, I will contact you. The three that I have pulled all had that top "insulator" and bottom "insulators" on them. Was not so concerned with keeping up with the bottom ones, as I said before most any 1/4+ piece should work there.
User avatar

Golden Jubilee
Golden Jubilee

Posts: 4930

Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:47 am

Location: Bothell, Washington

Post Mon Mar 17, 2014 10:54 am

Re: Top motor mount for S Series

While I've owned plenty of these motors in my stable and never had one with a bad upper mount, (maybe I should buy into the Lottery)

it's obvious that some are prone to failure at some point, IHC did start using the "saddle" type mount on the BD. & BG? motors, although I've had those with Y mount too.

some sort of mysterious application reasoning between them or the all to often: "after part No." you see all over their part catalogs.

since the Y mount is also insulated at the frame, going rigid connection at top to me seems a viable option,

either inserting a block of some type to keep same aspect ratio, or increase size of lower mount, looks like Ford Flathead 8 front lowers would work perfect for this.

anyone compelled to argue against a rigid connection at motor, should possibly look at the saddle mount in the parts book first and see that it is rigidly connected to the block.


*just remembered, when I swapped a SD motor into my KB-1 after going thru 3 GRD motors I had a metal fabricator custom make me a Y mount to go from front mount on the SD to the frame of the KB. it was rigid mounted at the motor and insulated at the frame,

I drove the truck like that daily for probably 15 yrs. before selling it and never had an issue, your mileage may vary
Gentle Men! you can't fight in here! This is the war room!
Previous

Return to L, R and S

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
Designed by ST Software for PTF.