thought i'd post my experience to help anyone with their tuning. I got a lot of help from cornbinder89 in figuring this out. the tuning starts here
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9011&p=69419#p69419 . so after what was listed in that thread, I removed the intake to fix the intake leak at 5/6 intake and 6 exhaust. my manifold is not perfectly flat, close, but not perfect. I had a small gap on both ends but only the rear leaked as it's harder to tighten down. I had to use one of the allen bolts in the kit for the second to last bolt on the manifold. you might want to check yours. I was in a hurry as I had a car club function, so I just used a new felpro gasket with copper rtv on both sides and tightened it down starting on the outsides working in. yes I know that's backwards, but it worked for now till I have time to take it back off, disassemble and send to the machine shop. I referenced the power valve by drilling the cap out and JB welding a copper tube in place, then ran the tubing to the manifold. see picture. the cap is too small to thread for a fitting. it was $100 the first time on the dyno. I knew it would be the same next time and when I redo my air cleaner assm, it would be another $100, so I just bought a wide band gauge kit from amazon and installed it $185.00. 13.8 to 14.8 is in the center of the range for lean/rich, so I drove up and down the road, stopping/adjusting till I got it there. lower number is rich, higher number is lean (pict is just with key on, not running). you have to run off
turbo (on vacuum around at least 7-8lbs) and steady for a bit to get it to settle out. it's trippy to watch it while your driving. even the slightest movement of the pedal changes it .
now no more lean when holding it on the
turbo. power valve works like it should. I will note that I have the waste gate set at 5lbs for now. when I get the manifold surfaced, I'll bump it up to 7-8 lbs.