full flow oil filter kit for SD engines

Jake,

Forgive me for asking a related question on your post. I assume you Oil Filter flange mounting area is the same as my photo. I want to see if I understand the oil passages in the face of the block where the filter housing mounts. The larger right hole comes from the pump and also goes up the block to the lifters thru the third bolt from the front...or maybe that's the smaller hole that does that. The far left holes seems to connect to the oil passage tube along the block. Is that correct?

I wish I was at home to help you with this. I'm back at work til the 9th. I thought there was a diagram somewhere showing the oil flow of these sd engines. I believe the far left hole in that pic is high pressure post pump/pre bearing/head. I think the upper right hole may be return to sump? Not sure about the center small hole...

I'm sure someone will come along soon with the knowledge we crave. If not, I'll try to get after it when I'm back in a wk n a half.

I would pull the pan if it is going on a SD engine and look. I know someone on the old fourm did a convesion, either Grumpa or Alex Kavaloff. On his convesion (and on the SD block) the oil feed from the pump goes directly to the oil rifle in the block. The feed to the oil filter comes off this passage. To make it full flow he "tubed" the feed from the oil pump so that it would not enter the rifle but went streight to the oil filter then fed back into the rifle bore passage after the filter with an external line. From my understanding of what he did, and how the SD oil pump is plumbed, you need to make internal modifcation to use a full flow filter.
If that kit was for a BD, then it will not likely work on the SD without modifications.
On the larger BLD/BD the same thing is true. Both take the same oil pump, but how the oil is routed after the pump is different.
Oil from the pump passes thru a tube that routes the oil into the block passages.
Look carefully at the holes in the block and find out how the oil is routed from the pump. If it runs to the main oil passage from the pump then it will not pass thru the filter. You may have to drill and tap another passage in the boss to make the oil from the pump go to the filter 1st then feed back into the oil gallery. I can't see it being as simple as a filter mount change on an SD block.

Reading about the oil filters on the silver diamonds, could a guy put one of those one micron filter systems on? I believe they are just plumbed into the sending unit hole aren't they? It would probably be more filtration than those engines ever had, but would protect it quite well.

All bypass filter can filter down quite small, but the draw back is they only filter a small amount of the oil that is running around inside the engine. A full flow filter can't filter to as small a micron rateing but filters all the oil. Best is a combo of the two, a full flow to catch the big particals and a bypass to get the smaller stuff. That is how bigger engines are protected.

The following pics are close ups of the cut sheet copy I made before leaving for work tues morning.
Install instructions:


Precautions:


Parts list:


Drawing on right side of page:


Bottom center:


This is gonna be awesome...

I'll try to get time to verify oil passages next time home.

Ahh, much clearer now that we can read the instructions. You ARE re routeing the oil and it DOES require removeing the pan and drilling holes. I thought it was too good to be true that it was just a filter mount change.
You could do the re-routeing of the oil to a remote mount full flow filter and leave the bypass in place, thus get the beniit of both, but that wouldn't give you the OEM nice unit.
Thnaks for clearing up the mystery.
If you look at the 2nd to last blow up, you'll see you are plugging the orignal feed to the oil rifle with plug (part labled #2) and drilling the side of the block and taping 3/8 npt to bring the oil feed to the filter inlet. The outlet of the filter then feeds the oil rifle via the filter base. One of the valves in the base is a pressure relief that dumps into the old bypass return hole, the other is a filter bypass to allow oil to flow with a clogged filter... Or at least that is how I see it.

You are correct sir.

Just for the giggles it did a part number search on the "cup plug" used and came up with a hit. So it sound like anyone who wanted to do the same with their motor could, even if they couldn't get the nice OEM filter houseing.
You would make the mod, run the line out to a remote filter head and return though an enlarged tap on the side of the block (where the cross drill to the main bearings are) to the oil rifle. The main issue is getting all the chips out of the oil system when drilling and tapping. Obviously, if done before a hot tanking on an engine overhaul would be ideal. Or you could see if there is a place on the bypass filter houseing that would allow a direct return to the oil rifle, in that way you could remove the houseing and do the drilling and tapping off the engine where clean-up is easyer, then re attach.
If you do this you MUST leave the stock bypass filter in place as it has the oil pressure relief valve located in the filter base, but this is a good thing, as now you will have both full flow and bypass filtering.

I was pondering your previous statement the other night and came to the conclusion that the process you just described was the only way to keep the bypass and get a full flow as well. Filter all of it with a full flow filter that has an internal bypass and pump that back into the mount for the bypass filter. Then Whammo! Bob's your uncle. I'd be a bit leary of fitting an inlet to the bypass housing. Doesn't seem like there's much meat there to work with.



Just my opinion though.

Looks like those filter adaptors are thinner then the BLD that I'm more used to. I was giveing more an academic exersise then a positive 100% set of directions. I still think it is doable one way or the other. With modern detergent oil, a full flow filter makes sense.